Korky 5030BP Universal Toilet Flapper Review

I did not use jackscrews, washers or red rubber grommet. I used old Champion 4 models, all I needed was a corky hose and a flapper. For Champion 4 toilets with a 4" flush valve connection, I recommend using this Champion 4 Tank and Bowl Connection Kit: US Standard 738756-0070A Tank and Bowl Connection Kit https://www.amazon.com/gp /product/B003H4BI3O/ They have better bolts with rubber grommets. The washers are also attached to the bolt so there is less fiddling with the details.

My toilet has a 3 inch damper. The base of the damper block has eroded over time. Numerous stores had 2-inch repair kits and replacement parts. The ones that had a 3-inch shock didn't include a gasket to install it. There were some complete sets. but could only fit in certain toilets. With constant leakage, the water bill quickly increases. I was in the process of replacing the toilet! Super disappointing. Then after doing a little research I found this kit that matched my Aqua Source toilet…

Update: This is a one size valve that leaks. I replaced it with a regular damper and that fixed the leak. This product is good quality but does not provide a good seal after each flush and leaks a lot of water. My water bill has increased by 30%. The seal between the tank and the bowl is too big and the tank is loose. It's not a big problem, but leaking water gets pretty expensive. I'm upgrading 2 more stars because it leaks very often and sometimes runs for hours before I realize it. This…

The only product that works on a wet toilet. I wasn't able to get the fill tube perpendicular to the back of the toilet, but it still worked fine. I would like more washers and nuts from the flush tank to the toilet as I like the anti-theft device on both sides of the flush tank. to correct the level in the tank a day later when I noticed a leak, either I didn't tighten enough or something. Reconnected in 5 minutes and worked great. It helped the toilet of this brand. The Liquid Master is what…

The worst part of the install was removing the old valve. I had one of the new American Standard Champion Four toilets with a restrictive flush valve that only flushed about a third of the water out of the tank. Required needle nose and deep nose pliers (preferably with straight jaws) that can extend at least 4" (Channellock 460 16.5" or 480 BIGAZZ 20.5") to remove the bottom fitting and expose the old valve assembly. Had to drive to the hardware store for it. Also, there is a great video on…

For years we struggled with the poor performance of our Champion 4 toilets and this flush valve solved our problems. The standard American tower valve is stuck in the up position, and if we don't notice it and pull it off, our septic tank will overflow and flood. We also had issues with water leaking around the rim seal, overfilling our tank enough that we would hear a "ghost flush" at home. Our toilets are only a few years old and I've already bought new ones. Luckily I decided to look for a…

I have an American Standard Champion 4260. The OEM design of their flush valve is terrible. It has a valve opening greater than 3.5" and will not fit any of the "universal" drain valves on the market. It uses a centered column that rises momentarily with each flush, allowing water to flow into the bowl. The Valve opening is 5" above the bottom of the tank. So even if there is 10, 11, 12" of water in the tank, ONLY the water above the valve opening will go into the bowl. Although it can be water

I have an American Standard Cadet 3 oval toilet. It started out as a round bowl but as a man this flaw had to go. Being from California, I'm looking for ways to conserve water. So I replaced the standard tank nozzle with water-saving ones. Everything worked great at first, but after flushing, the flushing cord randomly stuck out and pulled the water out. And so it had to be. Replaced the flush valve and overflow tube, fill valve and even the flush handle. Everything was removed from the tank…