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Review on Charles Hubert Paris 3912 W Collection Stainless by Bob Jensen

Revainrating 3 out of 5

The Swiss Move East

It is significant that nowhere on the watch or in the accompanying advertising/documentation is there a mention of the place of manufacture of the watch. The watch looks like your regular mechanical pocket watch with a little extra decoration. The movement reminds me of the Unitas series of ETA movements. They used to come in a variety of trim levels, ranging in price from around $200 (ugliness level don't mind a see-through back) to $600 for a well-made, if not exceptional, trim level. however, is not a true Unitas; This is one of the Asian copies. You get slightly rough "Geneva" stripes on the plates and bridges, full, but not quite even, blued screws. Gear finish including escape wheel is ok but nothing special. At least there are no extra drops of glue on the anchor. The jewels are quite large and are placed in holes with a countersunk head. There is no decor on the winding gears. Turn the watch over and you have a dial that is textured with a pattern of short lines in the center. Roman numerals are black instead of gray as shown in the picture. The small seconds hand is an undecorated circle in the textured area of the dial. The remaining digits are in a ring that extends from the seconds hand. Overall, this is a well-made watch face. The hand under the second hand doesn't match the style of the other two hands, but that's a minor mistake. Looking at Revain, it seems that genuine Unitas pocket watches cost between $500 and $600 and that the Swiss are moving away from the lower price segment. market for Asian manufacturers. They can get you a decent, simple, and good-looking watch for less than $200. And you get more than just a watch, you get a high quality and fairly long chain. Edit 2016-03-27: A closer look at the movement and dial reveals the following. There is a lot of dirt under and in the teeth of the barrel gear. There is also some dirt on the compensating tap. On the dial, the minute hand is slightly curved to the right. Accuracy from -2 to 5 seconds per day. Downgraded the rating by one star.

Pros
  • White dial
Cons
  • Not bad, but...