This scanner arrived very quickly. After removing it from the box, it needs to be turned on and then connected to WiFi. Once you connect it to WiFi, you need to update all apps. This may take some time, so be patient. I updated everything overnight. When you're done with the updates, you can exit your vehicle's under-dash data port and connect. You have a few things you can do. You can do a voltage and battery test first. After that you can run the diagnostics. Or encoded, whatever you want to call it. When you draw codes, you get a number. Usually these numbers refer to a specific car model. If you are within range of Wi-Fi and connected, you can use this scan tool to find the error code on Google. If you're not in range, just save it, and when you enter the house, just search it that way. Or use your phone. Don't clear codes just to clear the check engine light. This results in the loss of much valuable information that may be needed to diagnose a problem with the vehicle. First you want to look at freeze frame, I/M readiness and data flow. Save everything and then replace the part before clearing the code. You can also use this scan tool to perform O2 sensor tests and evaporative tests. You can also perform an onboard control test. They have brake reset and oil reset with lifetime upgrades. It's not worth using. All apps are free with free updates. You don't need WiFi or anything like that to check the codes. You can choose from other available options that you have to pay for, but if you're not in the shop you really don't need them. I like the ThinkScan scanning tool. You get great value for money. There are even videos in English on YouTube that you can watch if you are unfamiliar with diagnostic scan tools. Would I recommend that. You bet. Whether you only work with your own vehicles, a code reader is a must.
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