This is a good DC ammeter for applications that require basic accuracy with low probability of moisture ingress and depending on the application additional things may be required to make it useful. My app was supposed to be an upgrade for a store, rental and car/truck charger. I'm very happy with the update and the result, but there are a few things you need to consider before using this meter. This is an "inductive type" DC ammeter, not to be confused with the more traditional shunt type DC ammeter. Counters using this technology need a way to reset the counter before each use. For example, the Fluke 80i-1010 AC/DC Clamp Meter (which is used to measure the accuracy of this panel meter) uses a setting ring to zero the meter before taking a measurement. This panel meter uses a small normally open switch mounted on the back of the circuit board that needs to be pressed and held for three seconds to re-zero the meter before use. This switch also serves as a mode switch, allowing the user to toggle the display between DC Voltage, DC Current or AC Voltage, and Force approximately every 10 seconds. I bought two of the same units (400 amp units). For my application, one meter is set to only read DC voltage and the second meter only reads current in amps. I didn't want a counter to display one reading and then alternate with another reading, which is what this counter will do if you so choose. My old analog gauges were removed and I made new mounting plates to fit the original gauge holes and accommodate the new panel gauges. Gauges were installed, charging and charge complete LEDs were installed, and I was able to test the updated charger. REAR of the unit, but may not be possible when mounted on a panel. In order to simulate pressing this button when the meter is installed on the panel, it was necessary to solder a small normally open push button switch (seen in the photo). This can be easy or difficult for humans as the components are surface mount on the PCB which means they are very small. The switch to which you need to solder such wires is incredibly small. CAREFULLY solder the wires to the side of the switch or, as I did in my case, gently bend the pins of the connector. From here you can just add a push button switch and mount it on the front of the case. Regarding the accuracy of the gauge, I have attached a photo of the gauge used. The comparison is made using a Fluke 117 / Fluke 80i-1010 clamp meter configured for DC current. It's accurate enough for a charger and much more accurate than the gauges they replace (that's the reason to upgrade the charger). I see lower current being supplied to smaller batteries or batteries that are in trickle charge. Please note that using this meter over the past week, the typical variation or "drift" due to temperature is approximately 2 amps reported over a period of approximately one hour (between temperatures of 50°F to approximately 75° F). If you can live with a few amps, you don't have to worry about soldering the switch on this device. You absolutely can solder to the switch, but you must have a soldering iron with a very thin tip to do it, and you must be very comfortable can work with surface mount electronic components. If this review will be read by the technical department or the people who designed this meter, please attach the Revision 2 locations for the connectors to the circuit board. Install the additional reset switch. Few people are willing to handle soldering a surface mount switch to make this gauge useful. You have a handy instrument that is very user friendly and accurate enough for most applications, but does not need to be user friendly and modified to make it usable in the field. I'm happy with this gauge, but be aware of the limitations. If you've got a fine-tipped soldering iron, a good eye, and a steady hand, you can have a lot of fun with this upgrade.
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