1- Gave 5 stars for 'thickness' because it really didn't matter how thick it was. I'm not even sure what they mean by "thickness" for this product. 2- I gave it 5 stars for "Accuracy" because as far as I can tell it is very accurate. 3- I gave 4 stars for "Easy". for the installation" due to the work required for the installation and welding for the exhaust system. I had to mark the place for the "plug", remove the exhaust system and take it to a professional welder. .Don't have to 4- I like the fact that it can be calibrated.5- I like the fact that it has its own backlight because I use it instead of installing a gauge counter because there isn't enough space to install another secondary display to the floor mat in front of the shifter on the "hump". Since at least one of the important ones is missing, it is necessary to recreate the Toyota OEM carburetor parts on this car, which I ended up using a Weber carburetor kit, legal in California .Ever since I installed the Weber 9 or so years ago it has always been running at full power to know exactly what was going on with the Weber jet, idle mixture and governor r x mere movement. After rebuilding the Weber carb I used a fuel gauge to make sure I had the correct fuel pressure, a vacuum gauge, an accurate tachometer and an Innovate Motorsports (3837) LM-2 air/fuel ratio gauge. Once I figured out the jet dimensions, I had to work back and forth between setting the idle mixture and idle speed, along with an accurate tachometer and of course an air/fuel ratio meter to set it right. Fuel ratio gauge, there is no way I could do such fine adjustments on an aftermarket California Weber 32/36 that I use to fine tune the carburetor on my 1978 Toyota pickup. Update with more information. I read a few more negative reviews and realized I forgot to mention something very important. So here it is: The 12V cigarette lighter/plug at the end of the supplied power cord does not always make electrical contact in the 12V auxiliary socket. I have found 2 reasons for this. 1- The spring that pushes the pin (+) in the middle is too strong and pushes the plug outwards, causing problem #2.2. The pins (-) are shaped so that there is not enough friction to maintain good contact and pull the entire plug out just enough for minimal vibration to cause electrical contact (+) to be lost in the middle. The plug comes almost entirely out of the 12V auxiliary cigarette lighter/12V DC socket. The actual meter is very accurate and reliable as far as I can tell. However, if it is disconnected from the power supply (faulty 12V cigarette lighter / 12V DC plug) it will of course fail and not work as it is like literally pulling the plug right through. take testimony. After disassembling and examining the cigarette lighter plug / 12V port, I realized that this is the main disadvantage of the kit. My guess is that the 12v cigarette lighter plug/socket is most likely why other people who gave it 1 star and such a negative review had such bad experiences with it. Also, I should mention that if the gauge is powered off and the O2 sensor is still connected to the exhaust pipe, the O2 sensor can be damaged, the O2 sensor can be permanently damaged, or the gauge can lose calibration due to deterioration or damage can lose , or defective O2 sensor and will not display readings accurately. power cord and threw it in the trash. For the 12v input I hardwired it to a custom decoupling relay and used a 5 amp fuse on the (+) battery side of the relay on the relay. Also another 20Amp fuse for the #12 (+) wire next to the battery to allow 12V (+) to flow directly from the (+) battery to the battery contact side of the isolation relay. I wired it so that the cutoff relay only turns on when the ignition key is in the ON position. With such a constant connection, it worked flawlessly in my application. My conclusion: 12V cigarette lighter/12V DC plug is the problem. The meter itself is a very well built and accurate instrument. My advice to other people looking to buy one is to not use the 12v cigarette lighter / 12vdc plug that is included. Or cut it off and put in another one with a fuse you know won't blow, like the one in the box probably. Or just chop it off and plug it in directly. . Of course with a fuse!
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