Review on Enhance GM Stepper Motor Performance with the Dr.Speedometer X27.168 Repair Kit for 2003-2006 Chevrolet, GMC, and GM Vehicles by John Douglas

Replacing the stepper motors was fairly easy. After the new ones were installed I plugged them back in but basically they weren't assembled because I wanted to check and make sure all the gauges were working because as far as I knew they were. Of course I had 2 dead pears. 1 light for 2 different sensors. One was still working so I didn't notice. It shouldn't be that bright. I pulled it out again, got the soldering iron and the car drove all the way to the solder on the top of the board right next to the plastic that went around the bulb at the 2 contact points. Heat one side and lift a little and then do the other side and the light will go out. Put a drop of solder on the 2 pads and then place the new bulb in the right place, heat the pad to melt it and place the bulb on the side, then heat the other end and lower it off, tuck that side in the solder. . Make sure you make the correct 2 pads and not the other 2 pads that are not used. Stepper motors were easy. Make sure all needles are calibrated before pulling them with the tool. Turn it slightly to the right and then all the way to the left until it stops. Don't force it yet. Use some masking tape, I used blue painters tape to tape it under the needle, then mark where it's pointing! Do this for each one and then use the tool to pull the needles. When you are ready to put them back on you can push them all the way down and then twist them slightly to the right and then all the way to the left until it stops. It won't line up and take a wide turn, so gently get it to keep turning to the left, and as you get closer to your mark, gently move it to line it up again. If you go too far, you can turn it counterclockwise one more time and try to hit the mark you made. This may require multiple attempts. You can feel when it spins or stops from the gear and now the needle spins on the shaft of this stepper motor. Look on Youtube for examples of how to do this. That should keep you dead. 4 out of 6 stepper motors didn't work for me. I did this and unlike most I have a Pro Scanner that I could plug in and check the results. See, my speed is correct. Check my fuel gauge anywhere from empty to full. The speedometer is simple as it should read zero on a full stop. Same with temp and so on. I used a soldering iron. I actually used this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 and it worked great and it was very fast. The wire was a little bent at the solder points but I was able to hold the iron on the wire just enough to heat it up in a few seconds and bend it straight and then vacuum or solder very well. All came out easily. Then I put all the new ones on the board and they stay in place and then I solder the new ones in at once. At this point I placed the circuit board on the back panel and then plugged it in because I wanted to test and make sure all the lights were working. Those around the gauges should all work. There are a few others, such as B. Turn signals, which are on top and do not turn on until you use them. Just because they can be knocked out doesn't mean they're bad. It is clear that if there are 2 light bulbs on each side of the device and one of them does not light, then this is a bad light. That's the good thing about this kit. I needed 4 bulbs as I had 2 bad ones and I didn't even know about them. So that was a big plus. You also get new solder in the kit and it's more than enough to get the job done and then some. The needle removal tool worked great and the stepper motors were well packaged. I didn't have any bent pins or anything like that. I paid a little more for this set but in the end it was worth it for me. I know some people just took the needles off and said they calibrate automatically, NO! It's not like this. If you don't use tape and mark how the pins point to the old ones, they will be wrong. If you don't have a professional scanner like mine that lets you adjust the arrows to how they should be based on what the computer says, you're lost! This is an easy step. Twist the needles to the right so as not to disturb the tape, and then twist to the left (counterclockwise) until they stop. You can feel and know where the breakpoint is. This may be close to zero on the gauge but is not accurate. Even the speedometer is not at 0 km/h when it is switched off. It will be underneath, and when you turn on the device, you'll move to zero when you've placed it on the mark you made. If you didn't make a mark and just set it to NULL it will be over it when you turn it on. That's exactly what would happen with everything else. Your RPM, FUEL and everything else may be higher than they really are. The ONLY thing most people could fix properly is the speedometer so it reads zero at one point. Take a few minutes and mark the spots. The needles are NOT automatically calibrated and show where they should be. You're watching a YouTube video, and the person doesn't pick up or tag, they just pull the pins out. This isn't the type of video to watch and the person doesn't know anything. His sensor isn't reading correctly. It may be brief, but it's wrong.