Review on 🔌 2-Pack H4 9003 HB2 3-Pin Adapter Wiring Harness Sockets for 4x6 7x6 5x7 Inch Sealed Beam Car Truck Headlights - Heavy Duty Headlamp Pickup by Bill Lacy

Many claim to be rugged and come with 14 AWG wire, luckily I haven't seen any such claim on this product. The wires are clearly marked as 16 AWG directly on the insulation and they actually match that size. However, they look like aluminum wires, not copper or tinned copper, which is expected at this price point. than copper of the same size. Luckily these wires are short so they reduce the voltage drop a bit and hold a decent amount of current. It should be around 5 amps in total. This means no more than 60 watts of load per 12 volt circuit. The terminals themselves are crimped securely to the wires and a short section of non-stick coated heat shrink tubing is applied to the open crimp on the fork end. This helps prevent short circuits but does not contribute to corrosion resistance or prevention. There is no soldering, only crimping. As for the connectors, I'm not sure what material they're made of, but it looks like it could be copper or plated brass. With a file I opened up the light yellow material under light silver plating. The finish looks too shiny to be pewter. Personally I plan on making my own wires and I only needed the ceramic part anyway and I think they will work fine for that. I've seen many of these sold for double the price on Amazon and will claim better quality with larger wires, but that's not usually the case. In most cases it's only the price and insulation of the wires that counts, not the wire itself. If you just need a plug to fix a melted factory plug and bulbs are no more than 60w / 5 amp. You're worth it. Probably cheaper than you could even buy a regular plastic connector at your local parts store. I wouldn't use them for high wattage bulbs like 80w or more without new wires for the ceramic body. If you have the tools and materials to make your own wires, they're worth the price. You can find suitable clamps on Amazon as well as high-quality heat-shrink tubing with adhesive on Amazon. It's probably best to get the wire from your local parts store, just make sure it's a quality wire that's up to the task at hand. I suggest soldering the connections, but it's not necessary. A good, reliable crimp is crucial, and the terminals you need require the right type of crimping tool, which is also available on Amazon at a reasonable price. I've included a photo of the type of crimping tool you will need, which is sometimes referred to as a "B" crimp because of its shape. This is done for OPEN BORREL terminals. Pay attention to the shape of the die, as different dies are offered for open drums. The photo is for larger sizes like battery leads so you can easily see the shape of the crimp, but you will need smaller tools to do this. Also included is a photo of the terminal you will need, it is larger than the normal terminals commonly used in cars. This is a 5/16 or 7.8mm open barrel flat cable lug. It MUST have a locking lug protruding from the back or it will not stay in the ceramic case when you try to mount it to the lamp. Finally, you don't have to use heat shrink tubing with glue, but glue does add to the durability of your connections by 1) helping to trap moisture that causes corrosion, and 2) helping to hold the wire to the connector and increasing the cable's tensile strength, to make it harder to disconnect if someone pulls on the cable for any reason. 4 stars due to the low price and at least a decent factory replacement for lower wattage bulbs. Valuation goes down when price goes up.