Review on 🚛 Spec-D Tuning LED Light Bar Chrome Housing Clear Lens Projector Headlights Lamps for Chevy Silverado 1500 2007-2013, 07-14 2500HD 3500HD - L+R Pair Head Light Lamp Assembly by Zane Myers

PRO: BRIGHT DRLs. Attracts attention (lots of compliments) Understated design. Decent light output with standard bulbs, basically plug and play (turn on DRL) Good light cut line CONS: Very difficult to install retrofit bulbs (poor lamp housing design) H1 bulbs suck. It would be better to keep the standard bulbs or make them easier to retrofit and more affordable. Avoid the risk of condensation. Silicone stopper lost twice. I am satisfied with these lights after a few months of use. I liked them from the start and they were easy enough to install without having to have any electrical skills and finding the right wire to connect to the daytime running lights. The standard H1 halogen bulb for the projector was decent and had a good cut-off. I was also happy with the alignment of the lights themselves. Not too high and definitely not too low to see or dazzle oncoming traffic and I haven't had to adjust them to date. Now the tricky part is that you want to apply a second coat of silicone (just in case to avoid the possibility of condensation). And you want to upgrade your bulbs because that ugly yellow does NOT look good with those bright white daytime running lights. Seriously, it's so bright that you can see around your truck pretty well at night if you only have DRLs. I wouldn't recommend driving with only DRLs (they aren't bright enough to illuminate your future). I personally bought the HEADLIGHT REVOLUTIONS H1 LED bulbs which I used for the high beam and the DIODE DYNAMICS H1 HID retrofit kit. All in all, I probably spent about $200 on upgraded bulbs that I thought should have been just as bright and white since I bought them. Exacerbate the problem. They did NOT make it easy to upgrade these lights. Installing the lightbulbs yourself wasn't easy, but then getting them to work with connectors, cables and all that was a process in itself. The tabs for inserting and fixing H1 bulbs are difficult to avoid on new bulbs. In order for the positive and negative pins to work on the new bulbs, you must either solder them to the old wire or find a way to make a quick connection. You will also need to drill through the silicone plug that is used to keep condensation out of the headlights to allow new bulbs and wiring to pass through. And when you're done adding those two lights, and if you're like me, switch back the LED turn signals. No matter how neat you are with your wiring, you're still going to have a mess of wires, resistors, hidden igniters, etc. around your headlights and/or headlight area, and you need to figure out how to manage it all. in the purest way. Not hard. It's not easy or long either. One day I was going to pressure wash my truck (I always use a pressure washer) and noticed a headlight had just got FULL of condensation. Pulled out and dried. And I found that one of the connectors (not the lamp connector but the other silicone connector) came loose. Corrected, again a week later. But since I fixed it a second time, no condensation has occurred and nothing has been lost yet. Overall I'm still very happy with my headlights as I get a lot of compliments on them and they even work better with the amber halogen bulbs from the start than with my faded halogen bulb housings that I've replaced. I would recommend them, but I also recommend that you learn how to connect better quality replacement bulbs. I also wish DRLs would double as turn signals for the price and time you invest in them when you get them.