The look and operation of these are outstanding (before and after pics attached to this review). I wired mine to be turn signals vice running lights. As running lights, my opinion is they'd be too bright and distracting for fellow drivers, but as turn signals they totally achieve what I was looking for: greater visibility and warning for those around me. Very bright, and I did not have any issues with difference of color between the two, as a few folks have. Here is what I did:VENT COVER REMOVAL: You'll need a nylon trim removal tool that won't scratch your paint to pop the vent cover off. It is not the simplest to do, as the clips really want to hold on, but patience will get you there. Be prepared for one or more of the plastic tabs holding it on to break off, so make sure you're fully committed to doing this upgrade or you'll have to buy new vent covers.WIRING HARNESS ACCESS: Despite what many say in these reviews, forums, and videos, you absolutely do NOT have to remove your fender flare, even partially. You WILL need to to access the wiring harness for the running lights and turn signal lights by removing the 3 screws and about 4 or 5 of the (front half) plastic retainer clips holding the inner wheel well liner in place. It's a bit of a pain to reach up in there to the exposed part of the wiring bundle toward the back half of the wheel well, but it is totally doable. BEFORE you start, go ahead and get some replacement trim retainer clips, as you'll need them. I got mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts, but you can get cheaper ones online. Several will refuse to come out without breaking off the tops, even moving slowly and using a proper retainer clip remover tool, so you'll just need to get easy-peasy replacements. That part is no big deal at all. I did NOT remove any of the smaller head ones that show on the edge of the fender flare opening, only the larger head ones inside. Once you've removed the screws and clips you can gently untuck the liner from around the front half edges and bend it down so that you can access the wiring. Don't worry, it won't break.WIRING TO POWER: Some people use vampire clips to tap into the wires. I chose instead to cut and splice into the positive green and white wire (for use as a turn signal; you'll tap into the brown and white wire for power if you want to make them running lights). Did the same for the black negative and spliced into the black negative line (which you would use for either mode choice). I did add about 6 inches or so of additional wire to both the red and black lines coming from the LED unit before running that through the opening you'll see after you remove the vent cover. It just made connecting lines a little bit easier having the extra play, though what is provided already wired into the unit IS enough to reach the wiring harness for splicing. NOTE: I added the wire BEFORE I started the install, as it allowed me to use proper connecters and heat-shrink them, followed by electrical tape wrap. When done with the splicing I wrapped it all up with high-temp cloth electrical tape. Would liked to have made it even cleaner with other heat-shrink connectors, but it's a pain to reach up in there for access, so I sped the process up with the tape wrapping. It'll hold up fine behind the liner, and if there's ever an issue I know exactly how to get to it all.BOTTOM LINE: This is a great upgrade that you can truly do yourself with time and patience. Jeep should make something like this standard, or at least offer as an option that is part of the LED lighting package, as they really do look great and just flesh out the side safety. I also like how they blink once with the rest of your signal lights when you lock or unlock the vehicle. Patience and methodical planning and execution are needed throughout the process, but it truly can be done by most people without issue.
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