Large flat connectors. First, hex head screws are much better than the standard slotted head screws you can usually find. They are of good quality and the hex head allows for tightening without missing a screwdriver or pulling the head off. Additionally, you can use the hex head and wrench to REALLY tighten them down to the pressure point of the copper wire inside until they "cold weld" and fuse together like a really good crimp. I tested a couple of wires and the copper strands fused together and were shiny copper (like a proper crimp connection) even after a year of use. This makes the connection at the bolt airtight and will not corrode over time. Actually better than soldering. You really have to use a lot of torque and relatively thin strands, but that's great. Also, depending on the gauge of the wire, it is possible to thread the wire through the sheath onto a screw and into copper while maintaining a tight seal on the screw. The notch on the end of the connector allows you to see exactly where the copper is and I suspect there might be some solder at this point (not needed, see above). Of course, it also lets air through, allowing the wire inside to oxidize. That's not a problem though, as it's sealed on the screws. In any case, even with heat shrink tubing, with the exception of marine grade heat shrink tubing, air will penetrate. Additionally, if desired, it would be possible to spray a cleaning agent into the slot from time to time. Or you can use marine grade heat shrink tubing to cover it and the other end. The forks are very smooth. It's true that some texture pages can help create a more secure connection in the post. But it will also ruin your shelves by penetrating and oxidizing the metal plating if the shelves are made of copper, brass or non-stainless steel. I managed to get a very strong grip that doesn't loosen. In any case, you need good compulsory posts. So great!
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