I'm usually critical when a product doesn't meet my expectations. Etc. Go to Xprite, write detailed instructions with detailed pictures and save time for your next buyer. A small "chart" on half a sheet is almost useless. The comment that they can be installed in 20 minutes just tells me the person isn't doing their job well. That's all for the bad news. Good news. The headlights are of high quality and well made. The added electrical components are fine and do their job. The headlights are perfect for the Wrangler (I have a 2012). If you don't change the adjustment setting, you might even get by without alignment, although that's not a bad idea anyway. The Halo DRL (Daytime Running Lights) are superb and I enjoyed the Halo as it turned amber and flashed in sync with the regular turn signals. Now, after 3 hours of setting up the setup, I am completely satisfied with the light. Well done Cree and Xprite. Tips for the average installer or maybe newbie to installing anything that requires a wrench (not needed on this install). Torx T15 screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, electrical tape, ratchet wrench, and metric sockets. , ohmmeter, three snap connectors of your choice, two for the yellow wires and one for the red wires from the fuse box. very thin wire 20 or 22 gauge. thin material. Don't worry though, LED lights require very little power to operate, so while these wires may appear like a string to you, they work just fine. Just don't pull on them too hard, you could break the stranded wire in the plastic cover and they won't work and you'll spend days trying to find the problem. After connecting the DRL wires, I used an ohmmeter to make sure I had good connections and didn't have any "opens" (broken wires) in my leads. 2) Two sets of extra wires for each light have the correct connectors for your jeep. but they are not made exactly like the OE connectors on Jeep. So once you've put them together with little or no gap, use good quality elastic tape and tape the area between each set of connectors to keep water and dirt from getting in between the connectors. 3) You might be tempted like me to cut or disconnect the wire in the turn signal harness that sends a "flashing" charge to your original turn signals. This is because your new halo will yellow and flash for you and you don't need two turn signals to work at the same time. It's also odd because the Halo is an LED with a sharp turn on and off, while the original turn signals are incandescent bulbs that glow brighter in comparison and then slowly dim as they go out. Something you may never notice until you have a blinking LED next to the original bulbs. Do not cut the wire. The reason is that the halos only work when the engine is running or the key is in the run position. If you leave the 4 way turn signals on with the engine off (we all do this from time to time) the halo lights will not flash so you will need the original turn signals to work or you will have no warning to others in front of your car. 4) You can buy LCD bulbs to replace the original turn signal bulbs, but be aware that these cars are rated at 1000 watts/s and replacing the front bulbs with LCDs can cause blinker problems. 5) If you're looking for a hot wire for your daytime running lights, try the M7 in the underhood fuse box. With the key on it's hot, with the key off it's dead. Perfect for daytime running lights. You can locate and identify M7 using the diagram under the fuse box cover. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the side of the fuse box and used 14 gauge wire (perfect fit) from the M7 to the passenger side of the box and then twisted it to thread it to the front of the box and through the to lead hole. drilled there. To access this you will need to remove the top of the air filter box. I then routed the wire to a point behind the radiator bracket next to the passenger side headlight where I connected the two red DRL wires. 6) Of the three wires going to the turn signal, one is black, do not use, the middle wire is for the side lights (we called them "running light" or "parking light"). The wire on the other side (from black) is the "blinking" power line. I used a crimp connector to connect the yellow wire to the lightning line; Some will say it's a label I disagree with, but it works. Wrap the connectors with electrical tape. 7) You have to work hard to get all those wires and extra connectors back into the area behind the headlights. It's not too bad on the driver's side, but there's little room to work on the passenger side. However, all this will be enough. 8) You must remove the grid to gain access, but this is very easy and has already been discussed here in the questions section. 9) Happy to help if anyone needs help with the jeep.
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