Review on JULLISON LED 6 Inch Low Profile 💡 Slim Panel Light with Junction Box - 4 Pack by Debbie Jones

My project to finish the basement is about 800 square feet of finished area. I prefer the look of the 4th -" lights versus the 6" lights and chose more light sources to distribute the light more evenly. When I first plugged in one of these lights to see them in action, I was sure I had too many lamps.But I decided to put them all together using the layout I had sketched and see how it looks.In the end I was glad I stuck to the luminance I chose.The photos are the ceiling tiles are 2 x 2 feet so you can see how close I placed them.I made sure they are dimmable and did a little research to find the best dimmers for them as I need the ability e, turning the light up when needed and dimming it when not needed (see my notes below for more on dimmers). I used a hole saw to cut a circle in the tile and attached it with two 3/8 inch Romex clips. Things to watch out for: One of the dimmer switches I installed controls 19 lamps which I bought a Lutron DVELV-303P-WH 300 dimmer for as it can dim up to 300W (most only work up to 150w when installed and working with this dimmer I tested it (needing to have the neutral connected to the dimmer) and it worked perfectly NO hum or buzz from the dimmer or any of the lights at any intensity setting Note that this dimmer is a 3 way dimmer version You can get the DVELV-300P-WH 300 if you don't need 3 way functionality although it will cost about the same - There is a small one on the side Bedroom (not shown in photos) where I only have 3 of these lights installed This room is maybe 150 square meters I didn't want to spend a lot of money on another DVELV-303P-WH 300 so I have a Lutron DVC L-153P-WH used for this. This is about a third of the price of DVELV. It works well, there's no hum or buzz either, but you should set the dial on the switch to the lowest brightness that works for you and depending on how you set it, there may be a delay between pressing the switch . and glowing lights. The color output from the lights I selected has the yellow cast you would expect from a 3000K light. I have other 2700K LEDs in my house and I can tell they are not as amber as this one, so I think the color temperature is up to par. I dropped at least 3 metal junction boxes from my ceiling onto the cement floor. Stairs by screwing them to the bottom of the joists. I expected at least one of them to fail because of it. But so far all lights are working properly. The bottom of my drop ceiling tile is about 10-11 inches below the bottom of the joists. As long as I lined up the junction boxes in a square in the grid as best I could, and made sure to position the cans so that the connection cable is pointing in the approximate direction the bracket will snap, I've had no problems making the connection between the junction box and the light. - Panels of the 19 lamps in the main zone are connected to a 15 amp circuit with 14 gauge wire. - 3 lights in bedroom and 6 lights in it will be the entire wet rod zone connected to 12 gauge wire on separate 20 amp circuits. I had wired these rooms before purchasing these lamps and I expected that these lamps would be difficult to work with 12 gauge wire. Although 12 gauge wire is stiffer and more difficult to work with than 14 gauge wire, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the quick release connectors work well with 12 gauge wire. I expected them to only take 14 gauge. So I didn't have to cut and twist wires. Now that I have all 28 lights that I bought for the game, I am considering buying another set of these lights in case one of my lights or junction box drivers fail in the future. I'm worried that in a few years I won't be able to find a 1:1 replacement - that it will be slightly different in color or that the driver doesn't support my dimmer etc. I'm happy with it, as far away as my wife .