Machine-sewn, not hand-sewn, as to be expected for the price. The fabric has a silky sheen but is much heavier and stiffer than silk. This is an advantage if you like wearing a presidential pleat pocket square or a winged peak. Also works with puff, rose and scallop configuration. If you like showing dots, that's still fine, but if you're a purist, consider using cotton or linen with hand-sewn edges (more $). Most people would have no idea of the difference. As for reviews of poor quality tailoring or fabric, I absolutely disagree. This is a quality product in every way.