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805 Review
48 Karma

Review on SCARPA Instinct VS: The Ultimate Rock Climbing Shoes for Sport Climbing and Bouldering by John Kennedy

Revainrating 5 out of 5

First Aggressive Shoe - Street Ready - Love it

I've been climbing for a year now and have changed - lots of gym time here in Atlanta at Stone Summit + outside - Sierra East, Joshua Tree, Red Rocks (Vegas) and sandstone southeast around Chatta. Street shoes, used La Sportiva Oxygyms for the plastic. Leading indoor shoe 10/TR 11, now I wanted something more aggressive and was very satisfied (3 sessions). I ordered 43 (US 10) and 42.5 (US 9.5). 42.5 Oxyhim. The 43's fit perfectly, hurt a lot but I was able to get back on my feet! The shoes seem to get used to my foot and vice versa. 42.5 returned to Revain, too small for my foot. Obviously the performance is much better than the oxygyms.

Pros
  • Designed for Training | With a moderate lowering and slight asymmetry, these climbing shoes offer the usual high performance of the Instinct series with the necessary sensitivity for bouldering and indoor climbing.
Cons
  • Good but not great