Review on 🚗 IJDMTOY Smoked Lens 15-LED Tow Hitch Receiver Brake Tail Light with Strobe Feature - Compatible with Truck SUV Trailer Equipped Class 3/4/5 2-Inch Towing Adapter Hole by Will Murphy

This item is quite bright and looks quite smooth. I highly recommend swapping out the 4 pin connector if you have a spare or cutting the plastic between the 1st and 2nd pins or you will bend it during installation. And also carefully disassemble and waterproof. It's cheap for a reason and it's clearly a way to cut costs and get people to buy more lol so those mods will last longer than the ones you installed without regard. The front cover is locked with a tab on each side. Using a plastic tool, pry off the side with some tool clearance and go around. I snapped off a corner but it was easily repaired with epoxy. Next, unscrew the 4 screws holding the LED panel in the plastic. You will find that all the connectors are open to the atmosphere, lift off the plastic mount and leak water easily which can corrode your connectors! Get a DupliColor PlastiDip and apply 3 or 4 coats to BOTH SIDES. They say to wait 4 hours between coats, but we don't make it pretty, we protect against water and once dry it's NOT conductive (people coat their computer motherboards for a simple solid color scheme and they're a lot more expensive than this crap ). A clean application is not important as long as it has thick and 100% covering joints. Make sure the spray is angled to hit the underside of your LEDs. Then spend the next 10-30 minutes using your finger or tool to gently pull the corner of the plastidip away from each LED and pry them off. It's tedious on such a small area if you've never done this before, but it comes off quickly once you can grab the corner with your fingers or small tweezers. I've found that working on the side reduces the risk of tearing. You might find an easier way, but the end product needs to be a whole LED that is uncovered while the PCB IS. So put on some music and take your time so you don't break the LED connections that disconnect them from the board. The thicker the plastidips, the easier it is to rip them off without tearing them. Next, install the clear silicone sheet, then cover it with silicone inside and out to fill the seam. It might be overkill and will result in the BEAR being removed if you ever need to open it, but I didn't care, I would have preferred that no moisture or water had accumulated to rest while the lights were on is. maybe good for cooling?. Also, non-conductive silicone is irrelevant because of Plasti Dip, but if you missed some electrical components, let it dry! Otherwise you may short out the board or burn out the LED. Anyhow, this should last a long time, assuming the LEDs don't overheat. I'll update this, it's the problem, and post another solution. I'll be uploading some photos soon too. Ps. That might be overkill, you probably do NOT need to cover the front and save time. I have a second circuit board because I thought I screwed up with the first one I bought where I just tried to cover the back of the circuit board without opening it and overdoing it with the spray when it was on the inside of the lens was dripping because I didn't realize it was all outside! You can get away by spraying light on the back of the board. And fill it with silicone and do the same with the seams of the front cover. Either way, it will work and be better than nothing.