Rough loose weave. There's a lot of multicolored threads woven into the fabric, which doesn't bother me as it adds a "natural" feel - but there was a large dark brown thread that was pushed into the fabric just *right* on the shirt at the buttons, and from a distance it looked like a felt tip pen or a ballpoint pen mark. I took a very small brush and some bleach and luckily I was able to bleach it to make it go away. In terms of fit, I have a 38" bust and 35" waist and the small size fits perfectly. If it didn't have a mark on it I would probably give it 4 stars based on the overall quality of the fabric and tailoring. / Product refinement.
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