I really enjoyed collecting this part. The parts fit together well, all the holes drilled line up well and the cuts appear to be quite square. After fully assembled, the drawers are centered and slide easily, the gaps are small and even, and the block is very strong. My only complaint is that there were noticeable nicks on the edges of the two drawer faces. I've been able to tweak them, but I want all drawer finishes to be pristine. I would also like the manufacturer to replace the packaging with something more eco-friendly than styrofoam. This piece is made up of most of the pieces of a piece of furniture that I hand assembled (258+ and I didn't use a 20 for casters) but when complete it's a lovely looking piece that suits my needs perfectly. This took me about 3 hours, but I'm doing some steps that others may not be doing. First I lay everything out on an assembly line and make sure I have all the details. Second (and I recommend this step to everyone), I used wood glue on all of the wood dowels. The Cam-Lock connectors used in this product (and most DIY furniture) are pretty cheap, especially when used with chipboard. They either bottom out too easily or don't stay taut over time. In any case, their use usually leads to weakening and instability of the joints. However, they make decent "clips" to hold the panels in place while the wood glue dries. Wood glue is vastly superior to Cams and adds years to the life of furniture (I have Sauder bookcases that I built 24 years ago and they're still going strong - even after a few moves). I recommend Titebond II wood glue, but even Elmers will do better than nocks alone. Finally, I don't skip steps. The instructions are pretty clear and anyone who has ever made furniture with their own hands should have no problems. A couple of points though. You might be tempted like me to attach the bottom of the drawers with small nails (not included). At first it seems that they are not fixed and sag. But after the slides are attached to the drawers, the bottom is securely attached. Second, you might be tempted not to attach the plastic inserts to the back panels as the last step. Not. It's counterintuitive that these 8 little pieces of plastic can do everything, but they actually give the device a noticeable stability. Finally, and I can't stress this enough: don't over-tighten the cam pins or screws. Chipboard is a bad material, but for light furniture it is enough until you tear it off by overtightening the screw. You can use wood glue to fix the hole (apply glue to the cleaned hole, insert screw, let it dry completely), but the fix will be weaker than an uncleaned hole, which isn't a good start. bad handmade furniture. With a little care and patience following the instructions the chest should last for years and have decent aesthetics at a reasonable price.
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