Review on 🔋 CTEK (56-865) US 0.8 12V Fully Automatic Battery Charger - Black: 6-Step Charging for Optimal Performance by Punk Espinoza

**The instructions state that this charger should be used to charge batteries from 1.2Ah to 32Ah. If it can't quickly charge a large battery, don't complain, the info is there. My "guess" is that charging larger batteries may shorten the life of the charger. The manual says it can service any battery from 1.2Ah to 100Ah in a temperature range of * -4 to +122 Fahrenheit. CTEK 0.8 comes with two different cables with different termination options. One cable has clips that are a bit thicker than most, and with some smaller batteries this is a problem. They arrested my bike's battery but it was unreliable. Thin or thick clips are not a problem for people with small batteries because like 99% of all small chargers/holders sold today, this charger comes with a cable that ends in a grommet with a hole about 1/4". 4 inches so you can securely screw it to your battery pack. Not only does the CTEK 0.8 have charging capabilities, but its manual says it has a desulfation mode that puts it above most others. This applies with the exception of Battery Minder as it also has a desulphation mode.I connected it to my 50Ah Optima Red Top car battery and 8.5Ah Yuasa motorcycle battery and noticed the following: days in advance) In charge mode I have spikes on both batteries of about 14.36 V. When the charger switched to float mode I noticed a difference, when the float charger is connected to an 8.5 Ah motorcycle battery the La it outputs a constant voltage of 13.67-13.68V. When the trickle charger is connected to an Optima 50Ah battery, the charger will output a constant voltage of 13.6-13.61V*. *(Unfortunately, I don't have any gear to measure AMP with, otherwise I would have included that information as well) ** This is pretty good for almost any battery, including mine. Optimal. From the Optima website to the floating store: from 13.2 to 13.8 volts; Maximum current 1 amp (indefinite time at lower voltage). The manual states that the float cycle lasts 10 days, after which it switches to pulse mode. When it goes into pulse mode the voltage drops to 12.7V then it goes into charge mode bringing the voltage to 14.32V before turning off again letting the voltage drop to 12.7V and cycle repeated. Personally I would prefer the voltage drop to 12.8V as that would be better for an AGM battery and won't hurt a flooded battery. Favorites, but I find that I like Battery Minder a little more because it desulfates in float and float seems to last forever at a certain voltage. (I've listed what my other chargers do in the comments section because I wanted to focus heavily on the CTEK 0.8.) They'll want to downgrade their rating because they think they've found a bug: no auto charger I've tried starts charging a *completely* dead battery, they have minimum voltage requirements that must be met. This information is available in their manuals. I've tried this with a battery that reads 2.25 volts and none of my automatic chargers (I have several) will boot into charge mode. If your auto charger won't start charging, check the battery's voltage before claiming that the charger isn't working. This is where using a small 1-amp *manual* charger comes in handy to boost the voltage a bit. You can then switch and use the autoloader to complete the charge if the battery is actually good. Another method used is sequential loading. ), then connect the charger to the discharged battery and start charging. A good battery will trick the charger into thinking there is enough voltage to start charging. After about an hour, remove the good battery and try to charge the empty one yourself. If the good battery doesn't get back in series, charge another hour and try to recharge the dead battery yourself. Repeat this until you can charge the empty battery yourself. You want to charge a dead battery yourself as soon as possible.