Review on 🔧 Glow Plug Release Tool OTC 6768 - Powerful SEO-optimized Solution by Walter Martin

This is a much better tool than I was expecting based on some reviews. It is durable and fits perfectly with seat belts/plugs. I have mid/late 2004. Most of the bad reviews are from those unfortunate enough to find tips on how to make it as easy as it really is. Yes, straps can easily break if you're not careful as they become brittle with age and heat. First, spray the spark plug with WD40 (or something similar) and let it sit for a while. 10-15 minutes should be enough. Just put it on the fork as far as possible. When you leave it, make sure you put the tool all the way down and then gently pull. Mine slid down with ease with a slight "pop". I only replaced 2 glow plugs, but removed the other plugs to relieve the wiring harness. If it helps, the plug is about a quarter diameter or less and about 1 inch long where it slides into the notch/hole in the head and over the GP tip. The plug has an O-ring that seals this recess. When you get out you can look into the hole and only see the tip inside. One of my GPs was in a pretty tight position, the other one came off easily. 1 Keep in mind that neither this tool nor any other tool will be suitable for any GP harness. / Connector due to clearance around the engine, especially on the passenger side! Some people say it's easier to remove the wheel and fender liner. I did #3 and #6. Driver's side was easy, up. #3 was very tight. If I have to do #5 or #7 the wheel and fender come off! I nearly broke (small crack) #3 just around the corner. The cork slid off immediately with whatever WD40 I could put in there. Going back was just a manual push, done! I've seen where some bend the tool, so it's shorter and slightly offset. r and others, maybe a little more leverage to control the fork cable. However, it will be difficult to bend it, it is strong. This worked really well for me! This is not part of the review but may help some of those not lucky enough to find any advice. I checked my GPs which gave the code (P0673 and P0676 #3 and #6) directly in the truck and from the GP harness connector on the respective side and confirmed both were bad rather than replacing the GPCM first. After getting 2 new ones and plugging them back in, I tested all 8 from the connector on the GPCM to make sure each was within spec and was happy to see that 5 of the 6 I hadn't replaced tested exactly the same .like new, tested at approx. 0.5 ohms (net, approx. 0.9 with resistance tester) 1 passenger side tested at 0.9-1 ohms net. It's still within spec, but I know which one is on the needle in the tag, so I know which one to look at. I'm glad I didn't do what some say, replace everything at once. This is not always necessary. Of the 2 bad ones, 1 was tested at around 18 ohms (2 ohms is considered maximum) and the other tested at zero. Some say they should have resistance, but I didn't think that was true. Tested directly in the truck, on the seat belts and then in the hand. I haven't read anything about it. I paid for mine to be shipped faster and it was still worth it.