Review on 🔧 Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit: A Must-Have for Ford 3V Engine Owners! by Phil Casey

Let me start by saying that this is a great tool for removing blown spark plugs from a Ford Triton V8 engine. Specifically, I used it in my 2005 Ford Expedition. I CONFIRM that I read the reviews here and watched the YouTube videos before trying it as one of the downsides is that the instructions that come with the tool tell you the basics but not everything. A recent five-star reviewer posted detailed photos of what to do with a lube that isn't even mentioned in the instructions. I strongly encourage you to read his review. I won't say everything he's already done but will confirm a few things where there are potential issues and how I've dealt with them. First, prior to use, I applied a nickel anti-seize compound to all threads of the tool except for the head of the self-tapping screw. I've used high temperature grease on the screw threads, but any grease will do. The reason for using these products is that they help keep the tool from slipping or sticking and also appear to help extend the life of the thread or self tapping screw. I've read a lot of reviews and those that didn't seem to have the greatest problem removing threads after a few uses. I broke 7 plugs and I think a lot more could have been done. But even after going through all these steps, I saw that after 7 the self-tapping screw was just starting to flatten out on one of the threads, but still works fine. I also noticed that the threads on the plunger that screws into the spark plug hole stripped slightly even after greasing and I'm not sure why as it shouldn't have happened. Overall, it still worked and was usable. I could probably make a warranty claim with the company but they pulled my 7 plugs so I didn't go that route. After all, I haven't seen here how to remove the plugs after removing them! They don't just unscrew like the instructions say, at least not for me. I've tried clamping them in a vise and unscrewing them, but since they're round it still didn't work. The only way to loosen it from the screw was to break off the porcelain as deep as possible, put a screw in there and tap it lightly to push the porcelain into the plug as shown in the pictures, and then use a drill 1 / 8 inches to drill through the end of the plug as shown in the picture while it was in my vise. Why do? Well this allowed me to insert a hex wrench through the two holes and I was able to clamp the connector in a vise with the hex wrench in the clamp so it doesn't turn regardless of torque. My photos show the non-self-tapping screw in the fork, but it would still be there, and you could then use your ratchet to apply lots of torque, turning it clockwise to remove the plug from the screw. It worked great once I figured out how to do it. I hope this helps save someone else the frustration I was having. I did this with all 7 of them. It will take a little while, but not bad once you get the hang of it. As for the rest of the tool, I push the D pusher all the way into the plugs and had no trouble with that. Some people say don't do it for fear it might break the china or something in your head, but that hasn't happened to me. In any case, if you have an industrial vacuum with a makeshift hose to suck material out of the plug holes and an air spray tool that fits in the head and blows out, there shouldn't be a problem. Another recommendation: DO NOT HURRY! helps. I spend about 8 hours on it. Fixed my misfire causing me to go uphill in the 45-55 range. If you eventually break the tab on the coil terminals that holds them to the connector's coil, use a zip tie to hold it in place as it's a lot cheaper and easier than messing around with the wire harness. One of my tabs broke and here's what I did to fix it. Finally, make sure all of your coils are attached as if you misfired afterwards. This is most likely the cause unless you sprayed too much cleaner in there and blew it through with a tool. Overall, the tool did its job and I don't see anything better. It might be possible to improve the directions and maybe strengthen the threads, but not sure. Presumably the self-tapping part has an updated best version released by the company with 4 straight marks on the steel subassembly. I had these 4 marks on the exam. I hope this review helps you and the reason I took the time to write this review is because of the effort I had to put into studying it. I just wish I had a video to attach, but I don't have one. Enjoy.