Cut off the o-ring if using hinged ear mounts or it will interfere with the damper. Replaced the damper in my toilet. I couldn't balance. It closed too quickly. I replaced the heavy metal chain with an old plastic chain that actually floats in the water. The plastic chain itself floats (additional buoyancy). It brought me very close to my goal. The chain was as taut as it could be while the clasp was still closed. I've been playing around with the water level. I bent the bar in various ways but it was still wrong. I noticed that the handle and handle (which is also connected by a chain) have a lot of lateral play. When I flush, the bar rises and just pulls the chain up. about an inch. If I pushed the handle to the side and then flushed the rod raised about 3 inches, that would raise the flapper enough that it didn't fall off immediately. All I had to do was tighten the screw holding the handle to the linkage. I could only tighten or loosen it one turn. I clamped it in a vise and used the giant screwdrivers as hard as I could and it didn't budge. Like it was a "captured" screw or something. , I drilled through the center of the screw and removed the head. I couldn't get the rest of the threads to move with a vise or pliers. I then used a faucet and some magic faucet liquid and tapped it out for a small screw that I thought would work. Washers and bolt, and now that I've flushed the bar, the chain pulls about 3 or 4 inches. This raises the shock just enough for buoyancy to lift and slowly lower for normal flushing. The replacement side-mounted toilet flush handle kit is $9-$12, but I wanted it to work at the same time. and i did. My last Fluidmaster lasted 6 years. Just started washing up yesterday. The plastic was hard on the old. Flap position: 1 minute. Lever and bar mechanism handling: lol, I'm embarrassed to say. The new handle mechanism will be here in a few days.
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