Review on YaeTek 52 Holes Round Tungsten Carbide Steel Wire Drawplate for Jewelry Making - 0.26-4.00mm by Doris Tran

This is considerably cheaper than the pull plates they imitate but I had to learn the hard way that you get what you pay for get what you pay for. My biggest problem with this is that almost every hole is too small for the wire pulled from the previous hole. So between each hole you have to file, grind and hammer the end of the wire to eventually fit into the next one. Because of all this extra work, it takes an incredible amount of time to pull the wire down a few sizes. Not to mention all that extra stress on the end of the wire causes it to keep breaking and chipping, so you're wasting half an inch of wire due to breakage for every few holes. The next problem is that the wire comes out pretty rough. Some holes make very clean wire with no defects, which is good, but most of them don't. You can see large scratches and flat spots along the length of the cable. Moving on to the next hole adds even more blemishes. By the time you cut it down to size, your wire will be worn, jagged, tattered and often dangerously sharp in places. I sanded the wire completely between the holes with 400 grit sandpaper to try to smooth it out again. This increases the production time even with very short wires. The last problem is that the carbide inserts started to break after only a few uses. You can see chips and cracks on the inserts for all of my most commonly used sizes. Even before this damage developed, the wire came out in bad shape, but after this damage, the wire is in trouble. Each crack in the carbide is another giant stain down the length of the wire. In case you're wondering, I use a wire drawing machine, anneal after every other hole, and always use lube. None of these best practices helped me get usable wire off that traction plate without tons of headaches. I'm going to throw it in the trash and buy a matching plate today from a reputable jewelry supplier.