Review on 🚗 Partsam 5X Smoke Cab Marker Top Roof Light + 5X Amber T10 LED Lights (Assembly) Compatible with E150 E250 E350 E450 F150 F250 F350 F450 F550 Super Duty with Stock Cab Light (1999-2016) by Paul Koehler

available I have a 1999 F250 Crew Cab 7.3 that came with factory cab lights. I bought this set thinking the smoke would look better and my original yellow lights were fading and the seals were starting to leak. I'm also considering switching from regular incandescent bulbs to LEDs. First let me say that I am very experienced working with my truck and making changes that are much more complicated than installing 5 little lights. It should be a simple 30 minute update. But that was far from the case. The wiring harness that comes with these lights requires that you basically cut the plugs on the factory wiring harness or use the connectors on the factory wiring harness. (This kit does not include clamp connectors or wire connectors.) This kit was intended to connect directly to the factory wiring harness, but it does not. The small ends with plugs on the factory wiring harness are only about 3-4 inches long, so it's best to cut the plugs off the factory wiring harness and connect the new wiring harness with crimp butt connectors or solder splices. The included wiring harness is also the bulb socket on one end and the bare wires on the other. It's a completely different design from the factory headlights and how they connect. I tried using original Ford sockets first, but the original sockets align the LED bulbs straight up. So when you put in an LED lightbulb, the brightest part of the lightbulb is pointing up toward the sky. I set it up that way at first and even after trying a different LED bulb the light wasn't very bright. So I removed everything and tried to install the black bases from this kit. Because the sockets hold the canopy at an angle, the wire is now rubbing against the corner of the hole in the canopy's sheet metal. Ford factory headlights have two bolts that go through the roof and the bolt heads are secured in a bracket so you can install and tighten a lock washer and nut without turning the bolt or needing someone outside to hold it. The base for these lights comes with cheap sheet metal screws. The screws supplied are too small to use the existing factory screw holes in the sheet metal and it was not possible to attach the light to the cab. The only way to make it work is to move the headlights and drill more holes in the canopy, and I wasn't planning on doing that. This prompted me to go to the hardware store and buy 10 small stainless steel pan head machine screws, nuts, washers and lock washers to complete the installation. I found it impossible to use the bolts without a second person to keep the bolts from turning while the nuts are fitted from the inside. To do this, of course, I had to completely remove the ceiling paneling in the truck. As the bolts were tightened, the base of the headlights began to curve up, away from the cockpit. The front of the headlight was raised and the back of the headlight was raised and it was clear that water, dirt and debris got under the base and spilled out making it difficult for the truck to wash the headlights without cleaning. under the lanterns. The front of the canopy rose 1/4 inch above the roof and almost as much at the back. No matter what I did, when I just put them on a little, they buckled together using the spacers provided. Without bolts they would lie flat on the roof. After hours of fiddling with those stupid headlights, I finally had to ditch the included foam pads and use a ton of silicone sealant to attach them to the cab under the headlights. After the supplied spacers were removed, the lamp bases were installed almost flush with the roof of the truck after tightening. Genuine Ford OEM headlight bases fit perfectly on the cab roof when the screws are tightened. They are made of thin cheap plastic with no reinforcement around the screw holes and are not as durable as original lights. Before it was over I spent a whole day installing 5 small flashlights. Upon completion of the installation, the lamp's three bases were cracked and would need to be replaced entirely. The best advice I can give is if you have factory headlights on your truck, just keep them and don't replace them with this junk. It's going to be extremely difficult for me to go back and reinstall the factory headlights after the factory plugs are cut off, but I think I'll have to do that because I won't be buying another set to replace those that were already cracked. That was a big mistake. I absolutely despise buying anything from a Ford dealer, but in this case I just want to buy Ford headlights and spend more money to replace the OEM headlights that were originally there. Updated 03/19/19. They all started collecting water in the lantern and each base broke. Most likely due to the fact that I overtightened the fasteners to get them to sit flush with the roof. It would be very important for me to go back to the OEM wiring harness after having to cut all the connectors. As much as I hated doing this, I bought another set to try and fix. I removed everything from the first install, threw it away and installed a different set. I almost tightened them. They are not yet torn but stick out 1/8" or more at the back without using the included foam pad. As a result, they do not close flush with the roof. Cockpit so I plan on painting the outside of the headlights to prevent water from getting under the headlights.