Review on 🔧 ACDelco GM 251-719 Engine Water Pump with Gaskets - Original Equipment by Emili Hudson

The quality of the bearings is excellent. It spins 3-4 times easier than the old Delco OEM pump, but some fool dropped this pump at the factory. To make matters worse, it fell directly onto the shaft BEFORE the protective collar was placed on the fan clutch shaft. It has a very noticeable flat spot with tiny dimples indicating it fell on a concrete floor. Whoever dropped it should have thrown it in the garbage heap immediately. If he/she is absent more than once a week, someone has to sweep the floors and clean the toilets again. The painting is sloppy, the paint flowed and flowed. Otherwise, the casting, machining and pressing in of the heating and heating bypass make a solid, custom-fit and very reliable impression. It has not yet been tested for leaks. GM also redesigned and eliminated the exhaust port by placing a cylindrical swaged port in the cap in the casting that protrudes forward from the exhaust port. This will mask the symptoms if that pump fails. There is another vent at the top, but this is not the same pump as in the photo. Update: The 17 year old water pump has been overhauled with a new seal, bushing and bearing(s) and has been placed in the box the new one came in and it spins just as well and freely as new. So I have a backup that I KNOW was properly restored from the best materials available by the most knowledgeable person I could find (me). Heater and bypass pipes have been checked for rust and all treated with gun protection spray and rust inhibitor. The old pump casting has light rust on the machined flat plate on the impeller. There is NO RUST on the rear caps and tubes so they must have a good nickel or alloy plating. This is not the same casting as the new GM OEM pump. The new pump I just bought does not have a bleed or bleed port but does have a bleed port over the seal. THIS PUMP SHOULD GIVE YOU 80,000 MILES IF PROPERLY MAINTAINED AND INSTALLED! ONLY USE DISTILLED WATER AND COOLANT<>! <<<<>>>>!NO TAP WATER!<<<< If you must use tap water, flush the system. Flush the system every 80,000 miles and check the coolant at every oil change, every 2000-5000 miles! Use a voltmeter to check for electrolysis! Connect the black wire to ground at the battery and dip the red wire into the radiator water. Anything above 0.300 volts is too high and you have an electrical problem that WILL DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM! Use a specific gravity tester to test the coolant. Anything with a freezing point above -20 F and coolant should be flushed and replaced. Any coolant with a boiling point below 245 must be flushed and replaced. If this pump shows no signs of damage and costs $150, it would be a 5 star pump.