Review on TIG200 AC/DCP Aluminum Inverter with 0.5 - 200Hz Frequency by Sean Garrison

I also give five stars because of the price. You really get a lot of car for this price. I've included photos of my setup to see how easy this machine is. The ground clip is identical to the Lincoln 210MP ($1500) clip. The stitch for the stick is also identical. The regulator seems to me to be of better quality than the Lincoln. It goes through a hard rigid archway. The machine has minimal settings and I like it; Preflow delivers gas before the arc lights, postflow delivers gas after you stop the arc, downflow reduces amperage when you stop the arc, the gap effect is worth a little investigation if you're unfamiliar. The best way I've heard is this explanation: 0_-5 keeps the heat on the surface and 0_+5 keeps the heat on your tungsten. First I did a DC wig on steel using the Miller app as a guide for the settings, they were a little hot. The arc was good, the torch took some getting used to too, but the welds looked great. Next came a 10 gauge (1/8) aluminum plate conditioner and it looked amazing. So I am satisfied with the TIG functions. The joystick was next, first I ran a 1/8 7018 and it put out a very good 110 amps on a 1/4 steel shaft. I have then. Ran about 1/8th of a 6011 on the same amps (a little hot for a 6011) but turned out exactly like my LE. Then, just for fun, I got the car up to 196 amps and ran a 5/16 7018 on some 5/16 steel. I was impressed, I thought it would be difficult for me to keep Arch Lite, but I didn't. In my opinion, this is a reliable embroidery machine. Cons 1: You seem to have to turn off the machine when going from Tig to Stick or Petal to No Petal. Otherwise the numbers will not change when you turn the ammeter knob. A bit of a shame because I like to grab the weld with the TIG and then grab my tip and run with the stick. never mind Disadvantage 2: The cord on the petals is too long. The numbers on the amplifier dial don't come very close to the digital display. This is only an issue when using petals. Before starting to burn, I stomp the petal (the machine will show the power in amperes) and dial it that way. When the petal is not in use, turn on the amplifiers on the handle and the machine will display all the time. When the paddle is in use and not depressed, the display shows 010, the lowest value. That's the only thing I would change. Does not come with filler metal. So if you don't have one, you need it. I use 3-32 ER70S-2 for carbon steel and 3-32 ER5356 pure for aluminum. All my tungsten is 3-32 too, I use gray or purple, green (clear) can't be used with this machine. This welder is an "inventor" and not a converter, so use gray or purple with a 35 degree angle. This is exactly what the person who taught me used. Otherwise you will end up spending a lot of dollars buying all the different sizes of fillers and tungsten. I get lucky with thin materials and just pull the wire out of my MIG machine/spool gun. Again, using 3-32 across the board isn't the "best" way to go, but if you're just learning and working with things between 12 gauge and 5/16 you won't have any problems. If you've never bought any of these materials, 10 packs of tungsten can be around $70, so $140 for steel and aluminum, filler around $10-$14 a tube. Gasoline for my tank size is about $100. to replace $. So it's not a cheap process. Love this welder, didn't think I'd ever have a TIG at home thanks to Lotus! Have fun welding.