PROBLEM: I wanted to move a separate desk to another part of the house but didn't want to remove the existing desktop. I didn't want to build another computer either (the computer was brand new when it was first set up). Having used Thunderbolt docking stations in the past, I figured it would be "easy" to just run a long Thunderbolt cable from the computer to a new setup in another room. I quickly realized that it would cost at least $400 to implement (not including the dock). Other solutions included laying fiber with an expensive docking station. I wanted a cheaper solution and was willing giving up some features. SOLUTION: First I bought another brand. s HDMI USB KVM over Ethernet, but found it does not support USB 2.0 devices. Most modern devices require at least USB 2.0 support to work. Returned, found this set and decided to give it a try. It worked great. Using a 150-foot Cat-8 cable, I was able to view my computer at 1080p60 on the new device and connect a USB mic with audio out and a USB 2.0 hub with a Logitech Unifying receiver and an Xbox controller. You only need to turn on ONE of the boxes and the other box will be powered via the ethernet cable. I have a bidirectional HDMI switch, which allows me to switch an HDMI signal from my computer between the originally set up monitor and the newly set up monitor (so that only one monitor is active at a time). With this device I can receive audio, video and input from/to my computer. I haven't had any problems with these devices. This device supports HDMI audio display, but I have never tried/used it. These devices do get warm, but no hotter than a typical Wi-Fi router. I've been playing casual games (Battlefield IV, CSGO, COD, NFS Heat) and it's responsive. I'm sure there is a lag but I didn't feel any difference. When reading a section of text that is small and crowded, you may notice some artifacts (blurring) on that part of the screen. It also seems that there is a kind of halo when hovering over a solid (grey) background. Don't see artifacts during gameplay. When you connect a device that needs to be charged or powered, such as a B. a phone, tablet or hard drive, I have problems when it turns off due to excessive power consumption. Instead, I would recommend plugging these devices directly into your computer. The last problem I saw is that the device only passes HDMI signals and not USB signals. This usually occurs during a power outage or a temporary power outage. The solution is to simply disconnect and reconnect the device from the network. This doesn't happen often, but I would make sure that the power supply is connected to the most accessible block (in my case it was the TX side of the transmitter). TLDR: This device is worth it! If you want your device to be in two places at the same time, this is the best solution. Because the device encodes and decodes its packets separately from the device, it needs to be compatible with PCs, game consoles, security DVRs, etc. Use a CAT 7 or CAT 8 cable. While it doesn't say it anywhere, I'm sure most people's connection issues stem from using a poor quality cable. CAT 8 cables are not much larger than CAT 5e. this is the best solution. Because the device encodes and decodes its packets separately from the device, it needs to be compatible with PCs, game consoles, security DVRs, etc. Use a CAT 7 or CAT 8 cable. While it doesn't say it anywhere, I'm sure most people's connection issues stem from using a poor quality cable. CAT 8 cables are not much larger than CAT 5e. this is the best solution. Because the device encodes and decodes its packets separately from the device, it needs to be compatible with PCs, game consoles, security DVRs, etc. Use a CAT 7 or CAT 8 cable. While it doesn't say it anywhere, I'm sure most people's connection issues stem from using a poor quality cable. CAT 8 cables are not much larger than CAT 5e.
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