Review on 📸 Wolverine Titan 8-in-1 20MP Film to Digital Converter Bundle: High Resolution, 4.3" Screen, HDMI Output, Worldwide Voltage Adapter, 32GB SD Card (Yellow) by Brent Borseth

6661 negatives were scanned with this baby! Wow! It gets boring and tiring, but after the first 100 or so you're already in a routine and understand what image adjustments you can make (basically just turn the exposure value up or down by 0.5 or 1.0 stops, maybe a or twice for the color adjustment, and never the sharpen function because it's too sharp) and go. The biggest problem you will run into is dealing with different styles or methods of the past where the negatives were either individually (110 and 135mm which I did), best of all glued to the paper on one side what is a royal pain. remove clean or store in separate plastic cases which are nice and clean just take longer to get in and out. The machine is the basic electronics. A created digital image cannot be date/time stamped. There is no clock on the board to enable such a feature via the menu system. In addition, dust gets into the lamp projector. So use the very good cleaning brush that came with the machine if you start to see lint/specks in the last few scanned images. Simply pull out the negative film adapter and run a microfiber or static brush across the surface of the lamp. I think it's a 6500K color temperature LED so the device doesn't get hot. Be sure to comply with the specifications of the SD card. Our vendor provided a 'free' upgrade to 64GB in the form of a high speed (SCXC) micro card with adapter. All three are not recommended in the Wolverine manual (i.e. >32GB, high speed (stick to SD or SDHC), and micro usage). Luckily I had a 16GB SDHC card from my camera which worked great. Don't risk ruining this device as it's getting harder and harder to find SD or SDHC cards under 32GB. There are plenty of these, borrow one from a mate if you need to, but 16GB holds over 2500 images at once. Everything will be fine and I've been working with my 16GB card, copying and deleting between batches (see below). Keep an eye on your images. by date with a counter that does not reset. It starts at 0000 and runs sequentially up to 9999 before starting again (I remember ending up at 6661). The adapters work perfectly, although you will have trouble curling your negatives or randomly folded negatives inside the envelope. .Finally, getting your old film negatives as digital 4-6MB positives (i.e. 20MP camera) is the reward. Modern photo editing software can take care of dust/fibers, color corrections, a bit of sharpening, etc. if you value this beyond digital archiving like I do. I'll probably refine a few 100 "guardians" but they're all digital now, doubly backed up and ready to be forgotten on disk (except for a few 100's which I'll take the time to put in a digital scrapbook). ). I used the SD card the whole time, not the very small internal storage. I formatted it with Wolverine's Delete All command on first boot. I turned off the power via the USB port on my MacBook Pro, scanned 250-500+/- images per year, wrote down the images' serial numbers by month/year on a sticker, then turned off the power, removed the SD card, popped it in into the reader slot of my MacBook Pro (macOS High Sierra read the card perfectly many times) and copied the image burst groups to the YYMM folders on my hard drive. I then copied this structure to an external and another 128GB flash drive to satisfy my paranoia of wasting hours and hours of boring work! desired metadata such as real date/time, GPS, copyright information, etc. before archiving your new digital positives to a photo app on your computer. This way the Photos app understands the timeline and aspects of the collection based on your metadata. I'm using macOS so I think it's best to use MetaImage in the macOS Store. Tried Photo EXIF Editor but too many problems. (Ignore ratings and calculations.)