Review on 🛡️ ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Lubricant Formula - Ultimate Protection for Rust Prevention - 32 oz Bottle (.95 Ltr) by Marquel Floyd

I once asked people in the lab why all our prototypes were always rust free. Robotic vehicles, platforms, containers, portals, etc. Stuff that spends a lot of time outdoors in not-so-great conditions (Northeast US. Cold, nasty, super-nasty magnesium chloride spray everywhere). I was handed a bottle of this stuff, did some research (which all pointed to it being a magic anti-rust wax for airplanes) and decided to give it a try. After a few rides through lots of dirt and mud, I'm happy to report that I haven't seen a single spot of rust in the places I would normally expect (bolt heads, cupped areas between frame panels, exposed nuts, etc.). The hype is real, the ACF50 really works. Pixies are great at storing your stuff. As I've been told by our technicians and I've seen it countless times on the internet, there are right and wrong ways to use this material. Assuming most people reading this will probably use it on their bikes. If so, read on. The first key, you need to clean up the mess. ACF50 offers some level of protection, but that level is less effective when you apply it to dirt. The ACF penetrates fairly well too, but not when you've been baked down an oily, murky road for years. Take that thing away! Make friends with your bike and a good degreaser. Next comes the application. You can just rub the stuff in a thin layer (think deep oiling of a gun), but the real magic is in the mist. The real strength of the ACF50 is that it can get into places that are normally difficult to clean or protect. Think of the crevices of your engine or under your tank. Although there is an aerosol version of this product, I highly recommend getting a cheap airbrush or spray gun and using it to spray a fine mist of warm ACF50 (it doesn't spray well in the cold, the aerosol can is included). This will get you into all the places you can't see where rust normally occurs. For bikes, be aware that ACF50 is a VERY slippery material that doesn't come off easily without a strong degreaser. That's fantastic quality :D except. the. grips. pedals. brakes. Tires. walls. dogs. You have to cover some things. Get out the garbage bags and tape. Cover tires and brake discs. Cover handles, mirrors, buttons, remove the seat and any gear/bags you don't want to ACF. If you're extra careful, remove the side panels to go deeper. On my Tenere 700 and XT250 the panels came off instantly so it took 10 minutes. Once you have that sorted out, start spraying (don't forget the ACF50 is warm! Leave the bottle in the sun or in hot water). . Use ventilation, the ACF50 is really good for your bike, but not for you. Again, you really don't want to inhale the mist of this material (or any other petrochemical aerosol). After the material has settled, allow the material to dry. Tweak any spots you missed such as: B. screw heads or electrical contacts such as ground straps. When washing, cold water removes most of the dirt that is on the ACF50 layer. You really don't want to spray a ton of soap or detergent as that will take away the work you've done. While this makes your bike look a bit gritty, it keeps the protection in place longer. Places you normally get to (e.g. fairings and wheels) can be lathered/cleaned/protected as usual if that's your style. As long as you don't spray soap inside the bike, important (ie hard-to-reach) spots remain protected. and spring cleaning. TLDR: - the hype is real ** used as intended - spraying is better than wiping. Spraying is better than spraying. ACF50 sprays best when it's warm. Clean and dry first, then cover parts that require grip (grips, tires, brakes, etc.). Don't breathe in the mist. Ventilation and a ventilator are your friends. Also glass. Strong degreasers like Wash-All will remove ACF50. Rinse with water until ready to clean/spray again.