Review on Sioux Chief 652-A: High-Performance 1-Inch Plumbing Solution by Darren Neal

My old house has a regular "airbox" type of "airbox" to keep water hammer over everyone Prevent faucet and any fitting. But recently I moved the house from a private well to a village water supply and with that the water pressure increased and so did the flow. I started having problems with water hammer, which I've never had before, mainly in some places where there were automatic valves (like the washing machine and an outdoor faucet with a timer controlling the irrigation; closed in those places The valves open up quickly. I ran into this with retrofitting my existing "tube extender" type airbags in hopes of eliminating water hammer or upgrading to proper water hammer absorbers. These are devices which are essentially small shock absorbers that use water in one run pipe and which cannot be "soaked with water". , and therefore can be expected to run for a long time without attention or gradual drop in performance. Chief, because they seem to be one of the main manufacturers of these products. But I've learned That many stores (Home Depot etc.) sell these products because they must be based on static pressure of the water can be selected s and the actual water consumption at the relevant point (tap). I bought two inexpensive pressure and flow meters (from Revain). Check out my other reviews of these products. I reported my findings to Sioux Chief via their inquiry form and their technical support team advised me on which spark gap model to use for the best results in my situation. The 652A arrester discussed here was recommended for an outdoor faucet, while another model proved best for a washing machine. the end of the flame arrestor is the size of the end of a copper pipe and you solder directly to the flame arrestor), plus threaded fittings and another type of fitting I've never seen before. I opted for a normal thread. My job was to cut the existing copper pipe just above the "tee" where the existing airbox pipe exits the faucet and solder an appropriate size. I then simply screwed a new spark gap to this fitting, done. I figured this was preferable to soldering directly to the flame arrestor as the excessive heat could damage the internal piston, o-rings or whatever. I haven't soldered pipe professionally and figured I could heat the trap more than a professional plumber would. I also like the ability to quickly remove and/or replace the surge arrester without soldering. I haven't noticed water hammer since installing these surge protectors, so I think they're doing their job.