Review on 🎮 HORI Nintendo Switch Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa Fight Stick - Officially Licensed by Nintendo: The Ultimate Gaming Experience for Nintendo Switch by Dink Rivas

Excellent arcade joystick! I've managed to use Nintendo Switch and PC, so switching (pun intended) between the two is pretty easy. You can even use a USB-A 2.0 to USB-C adapter and plug it directly into the Switch without a dock. Although you need a stand. The only real downside is that it can only be used on one console or one PC, not the three main consoles and the PC. Assign and Turbo modes can be a bit difficult to understand, but a short YouTube video will get you there. I never use them to be honest, but this is a feature that can be used. The cable is a good length, the compartment for storage or management is large and easy to open/close. It's the only part that doesn't feel as hard as the rest, but I think its flexibility is that it doesn't break when you hit it, much like a Gummimaid. Hayabusa's 30mm keys are responsive and fast, with a matte finish that won't stick to your fingers (although some like that grip, the keys are incredibly easy to swap out). Alone, the Hayabusa fighting stick is excellent. Responsive, clicky, medium to low resistance. It was made for speed, but if you play hard it won't be as bouncy as the Sanwa. The case itself is very solid, with a hidden recessed grip on the front and two on the sides to shift its position. There are two foam pads on the bottom that align with your hips when on your knees, or practically stick to a glass or metal surface when you place it on a table or desk. He won't move! The top deck is simple but attractive, with a nice smooth yet grippy surface to rest your left hand on. The front corner is angled so you can perfectly rest your right hand's pad on it while playing the piano. The only mod I made for sure is the restrictor gate. In case you're unfamiliar, a stopper is a piece of acrylic or molded plastic that fits over the bottom of the bar and determines the shape of the contour as you move the bar around the boundary. It comes with square gates, which are most popular in Asia (especially Japan), while octagonal or round gates are more popular in Europe and America. The Japanese method is to stay inside the gate, so it can really be any shape, but the square is great for playing a charged character, and each of the 9 entrances (Neutral, Up, Up/Right, Right, Down /Right, Down , At the bottom). /left, left, top/left) are the same size in square gates, only about 11% of your area. BUT you can't really feel top, bottom, left and right, just corners. The round shape is good for gate control, while the octagonal is good for knowing exactly which direction you're entering but has small diagonal areas. I prefer a mix of octagon and round, where 8 corners are slightly rounded and have a noticeable "bulge" at 8 points. Helps with my SF uppercuts. To get to it, you'll need to remove the bottom panel with a couple of Phillips screws (this will void your warranty, but hey, if something breaks I can easily fix it!). Remove the 4 screws from the old plate, screw in the new one and use it again to reattach it. Bingo, done. While you're there you can snap a photo of where the wires fit into your buttons for reference if you decide to install others in the future. Overall I think it's a great joystick. Very durable with good weight and excellent details. If you're an enthusiast or want all your old side scrolling arcade games to run on your PC or ported to Switch to feel like a real arcade game, this is like a time travel device. Except that you bought this stick instead of spending a bunch of coins at an arcade.