Firstly, as others have said, there are no instructions. Come on, print it out and put it in the box. Minus one star. I got this because I replaced the fairings on my 2003 CBR600RR and the new fairings didn't have holes for the old sliders. I didn't have the original engine mounting bolts - I inherited the bike so I got what I have! Not too heavy, just find the screws/clips, and don't forget there's a part in the side panels where they go in and slide to latch with the top. The lower fairing also has a retractable part. They're pretty solid, just take your time, grab the screws and all the retractable connectors and see where they go. (I didn't have one for 19mm, had to run to a big shop) and a heavy duty hex wrench (I used an impact hex wrench) - The OEM washer will not be reused. Use the **small** spacer from this kit instead and fill the remaining space with the actual mounting bracket. So it goes BETWEEN the frame and the engine. Bracket Thickness + Small Spacer Thickness = Original Spacer Thickness! - The nut had a different thread pitch so I had to run to the big shop again :( (needed 1.25 I think the OEM had 1.50 or so). Again I had to get some details because I was solving the frame sliders with holes cut so I could mount the frame sliders without cut outs because I fitted a cheap Chinese fairing - I didn't start with OEM bolts/nuts -NOTE: DO NOT USE SCREWS FROM THE KIT, use the original motor mount bolt -NOTE : If, like me, you unbolt a previous owner's frame sliders, use the longer screw on the left -There are 2 identical longer screws included identical short bolts in the kit this is for the crossbar that slides just behind the radiator roniki so you can put the brace in. The fifth bolt that differs from all the and eren differs in t is a sentence? Another long one? This goes on the left side like the engine mount bolt. Unlike the right side, you will need to install the larger kit spacer OUTSIDE the frame (the screw hole is countersunk and you will fill in the gap) so you will need a longer screw to accommodate the spacer length. There is no nut on the other side of the bolt. Simply screw in and tighten - put on slider and connect crank, tighten! -NOTE: The old straight-joint frame slider on this page didn't have a hex bolt for some reason, so I had to cut the slider off. I just started cutting with a hacksaw and hitting the old slider with a hammer and it broke easily. At this point I was able to seat the bushing onto the stud and pull it out. I used it in reverse as mentioned above because I didn't have the factory screws - reset the radiator screw. Tighten. Tighten the sliders themselves and the connecting rod bolts. Put the fairing back on and you're done.
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