They require more explanation than in the copy. You want the bulbs to look at 9 and 3 o'clock after installation. I removed the 2 Phillips head screws on my H13, 2015 Cruze without a projector and rotated them so that when fully installed the lamp housing is vertical and the LEDs are at 9 and 3. Before I did this I had some headlight holes and bad bezel and a bit of light on the right bulb. Now I'm where I need to be. The cutoff is good, not as harsh as the Audi, but that's a $2,000 headlight. There's a big jump from low to high on this car, so you might end up dimming the lights depending on whether you're a country or city driver. At a low level, you can't see people's heads in the car when you're driving behind them, so they don't capture the rear view to dim your headlights. Another note about my machine, the power cord should be at 6 degrees. watch when the lightbulb is in place. I had one during a test run at 12 o'clock and it switched on the low beam and the high beam and vice versa. A little fiddling resulted in me getting a 6 wire power cord that worked correctly with high/low. Since these mounting screws are tiny, I suggest doing the leveling work on a bench with a towel underneath to catch these small screws. Do a few test runs, make sure they line up properly, then plug them in. Another thing is that it needed two pairs of channel locks, one on each side, for the electrical connector to engage and secure the mount. You couldn't do it with your bare hands or even block a channel. All this means that I am very satisfied. They're not as bright as the sealights I have in a 2012 Suzuki SX4, but there's no way of knowing which headlight housing is simply better designed. I would give them about 8.5 brightness. I have to drive a bit through the countryside to tell you how far down the road they go. The light is nice white and turns on instantly. I don't think you need to shell out $400 to a 'famous' LED company to get working bulbs.
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