Review on 🔌 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness: Waterproof Switch, Fuse 40A Relay On-Off for Enhanced Performance by Cody Wuol

Let me start by saying that I installed a 20 inch LED panel on the roof of my Gator and didn't want to remove all the panels to get to the bottom arrive from the car. , and if you've ever worked on one of these cars, you know what I'm talking about. The section of the seat belt that connects the light to the battery was long enough to go from the roof along the roll bar and then down the back of the roll bar to the passenger side and under the seat to the battery. However, the harness was much, much shorter - no longer than 3 feet and certainly not strong enough to withstand the bushes, thorns and cacti that I had to drive through. I donated a 16 ga external extension. Cut off the ends, cut the switch harness in two and solder each end to both ends of the extension (using heat shrink to seal the connections). Route the wiring harness from the dash through the firewall and then across the floor and secure the cable to the control cables which run under the car and then to the battery. I also used a MICTUNING rocker switch (love those Chinese names) instead of the switch that came with the wiring harness. It fits into one of the empty switch positions on the dash, but the hole needs to be enlarged a bit. There is an easier way, but my wife will tell you that I don't always choose that route. How much time have I spent? At least two cigars in two days.