I've been working with headlight tint film for a while and also tinted car windows and at first the thickness confirmed it was the right application. A thin protective layer on top when wringing and a good glue on the other side. But both of the films I bought were packaged WITHOUT a hard core, so there were permanent creases every few inches when the film was unwrapped. I tried fixing it with a heat gun but it wouldn't go away. You cannot ship this type of product without a core. When I buy window tints, they usually have a paper or plastic backing. This prevents the film from expanding, shrinking and being crushed during transport. It should be noted that the light blue color is actually blue as you see in the photo. I was just frustrated that there were creases and I have to find another supplier to ship them differently. Note: If this is your first time doing this, please read on below. You can't just buy it and wear it. This will NEVER work. Look at your headlight and make sure you don't have some ridiculous curve or shape like the new 2012+ Toyota Highlander has those sharp edges at the top of the curves. It takes a lot of skill to install one of these. If anything, buy a larger roll. 12x48 gives you ONE chance to fit the film on most headlights. Do yourself a favor if this is your first time and buy yourself: hair dryer or heat gun (Wagner, cheap $20 at Revain is all). I use) - Felt scraper (one will do) - Sharp knife (utility is fine, but get a clip-on blade like Olfa with stainless steel blades, which is also window safe) - Cheap spray bottle for spraying soap solution (15 drops). quarter bottle baby shampoo) You must use heat. Unless your headlight is flat as a brick, the foil should conform to the shape of the headlight. Luckily, these films are much thicker than tint film. Find the flattest part of the headlight and start cleaning that area by spraying a soapy water solution on the headlight and adhesive side when you are ready to install. Fix to a flat surface by squeezing out the water. He will stay there. Don't press too hard, but firmly. Try to leave an extra inch of foil around the edge. Heat it up and keep moving the heat gun so you don't over-soften it and damage the headlight. If it fits, stretch "a little" and scrape off the water. Cut the edge in the area where the film is properly positioned and laid. The first page may take an hour the first time, but the last thing you want to do is rush and have creases, burn marks on the film, torn film from overheating, or you've shrunk the film too much. Let the warmth sink in. Just don't let it get too hot. When you're done, you can scratch the surface of the foil near the edge and the wafer-thin protective layer will peel off.
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