TIPSI has been involved in aftermarket installations and upgrades for many years such as: B. the replacement of iPod batteries and iPhone components, and trains teams. As a pro, let me tell you that this project is harder than it looks. Here are some tips. The printed instructions are horribly designed. Find instructional videos on YouTube and set the playback speed to 0.5x instead of trying to follow misleading printed instructions. Installation takes time. Don't believe anyone who says they did it in 30 minutes. It will take longer. Postpone your evening. It's not a pre-assembled backplate that you unscrew and plug in. There are dozens of individual wires, buttons, and plastic mounting plates, you'll need to provide your own wire cutters, double-sided tape, and solder, and you assemble each sub-component. two soldering steps, and you can choose either both or none of them. The first step you get is to solder a pin on the ribbon cable to the adjacent button body so you can bind the touchpad click to the back button. Honestly, just skip it. Chances of a cable melting or other irreversible damage to your project is high, the connection here is weak and games won't benefit from it anyway. - The second is to solder two free wires to the contacts on the PCB for R3/L3. It's less random and a little less jerky. If you can think of a game that requires this (and doesn't support in-game controller remapping, making it pointless), give it a try. Otherwise, skip those as well. You get all "real" buttons automatically without soldering. To be honest you won't regret missing all that soldering unless you're a dumbass like me. The ribbon cable is not routed correctly. When you put everything back together for the first time you will have a hard crease. It is my understanding that this is unavoidable and may affect the functionality and durability of the modified controller. After a painful install, I found that several of the original face buttons were unresponsive. Hard reset (clip in pinhole) and PS4 reboot later and they all seemed to work. Except L2. For some reason the L2 button was completely broken; no extra button, but a real original L2. This is a problem and renders the entire controller unusable. Disassembled, rearranged cables, reassembled, nothing has changed. I did it again, this time completely disassembling and cleaning all the contacts, and the third time it really worked again. All in all it was 4-5 hours of work or something. Don't overdo it. Once it works, it works. The programming steps are so simple that you can take a minute and reinstall between different games each time if you wish. One of the four buttons on mine doesn't protrude far enough out of the case and therefore can't be "pressed" like the other three can, it has to be swung sideways to "click". Reinstalling the internal button assembly didn't help, the problem is in the plastic molding. In a nutshell; Overall, even when done "right", it's not 100% consistent. However, if you like that "back" button arrangement instead of "petals" or other bolt-on solutions, you don't have many other options. Give it a chance if you don't mind the risks!
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