I bought this inverter to use when my ski condo runs out of power. I have a switch for the generator input, but I didn't want to store gas and have to deal with gas stabilization, carburetor cleaning and the like. So I bought a 1kW inverter at a car dealership and made a fake cable to connect the output of a single phase inverter to the input port of a two phase generator. It worked, but the partial power motor in the central heating would not start. The stove (a modern high-efficiency double-conversion gas range) would come on and burn, but when it got hot enough to turn on a partial fan of the whole house, the little inverter would overload and shut down. Then repeat everything over and over again. If you read the specs carefully, the 2x "peak power" that *every* inverter claims is good for only a millisecond or two. While the engine takes many seconds to accelerate, so no dice. So I bought this reliable WZRELB 4000W 12VDC to 120V solar inverter for its 4KW continuous output. It comes with two sets of power cords (#5 gauge or so) which I connected to heavy duty test clips. I plug this into my car battery, drive 50 feet #12 to the generator and start the car. The car *must* be running or the inverter will suck life out of the battery. At these power levels, the inverter input actually drops below the shutdown limit when the vehicle's charging system is not supporting the battery. The inverter and AC wiring can handle voltage spikes, but the car's alternator and battery can't keep it going forever. But car batteries are what they are: to start a car for a few seconds, they can also power a large AC motor for a few seconds. As long as the inverter and AC wiring can handle it. This one works. I used it on my car's air filter during a snow storm and it runs my stove fan perfectly, as do many dimmable LED lights and they all worked. The Impulse power can handle anything I throw at it. I just can't keep more than 1.5kW constant or I'll overcharge the alternator by 130 amps and start draining the battery.
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