Review on 🌡️ Adjustable Thermostatic Commercial Countertop by Aliyaduo by Dakota Afzalian

is designed for 110 volts AC, 3000 W, 3000/110 = 27 amps. Most 120 volt AC home outlets are rated at 15 amps, while kitchen outlets are rated at 20 amps. Luckily they redesigned the cable so it never hit 27 amps, but by doing so they may have halved the performance. (yes, confirmed) Also, they didn't include a power cord lock so it's easy to rip out if you're not careful. I measured my device with an AC plug voltage of 120 volts, I measured 14 amps, 120 x 14 = 1680 watts. Not safe for anything other than 20 amp kitchen outlets, even better if connected to its own power line. Bottom line, it's unsafe to plug this thing into an ordinary kitchen outlet that allows the circuit to exceed 20 amps, the power cord is unsafe due to the lack of a strain relief, and since you're only using half the power of 1680 watts instead of 3000 watts it will probably never overheat or not cook properly. (Yes, confirmed below) I bought a 20A circuit breaker, 12-2 20A household cord and a 20A commercial ground fault plug to install in my kitchen to test the safety of this thing . I have an infrared thermometer. I'm going to test this thing out to see if it hits its 300C rating on the dial. When in doubt, stay tuned. hp The specification label on the back of the device has been wiped off. Did some testing, plugged into my new outlet, drew 14.8 amps, didn't have my infrared thermometer with me so used a dipstick on the surface. 5 minutes temp 120°C 10 minutes temp 170°C backup off selector heater turns off at 100°C 12 minutes temp is 225°C backup selector heater turns off at 140°C 20 minutes peak temp is 240°C, backup switches off The cyclic heating switches off at 180 ° C. So if you set the heating controller to 300°C, it will never turn off and its maximum temperature is 180°C. This means that the temperature sensor is defective or in the wrong position. Not UL recognized, not safe for use in US kitchens.