Review on 🔧 Flexx Boot FB3000: Small Shaft Universal CV Boot Installation Kit & Constant Velocity Boot Set - Efficient Solution for All CV Boot Installations by Larry Sabey

I guess it's like everything else, the first time it's a problem but the second time it goes much smoother. Here the instructions would really help you to give you a chance of success in the first time. I made an external resume so the first question was: do you flip it and match the big end first, or try to match the small end first? There are videos showing how to do it both ways and I couldn't find anything specific to this brand. I decided to change it up and I think I'll do it again. The next question was how to lubricate the cone. Some videos talk about Pledge, some talk about oil, some about lube, some kits have cone lube. I started with the Pledge because it looked like it would get the least mess, but I made another mistake by only lubricating the cone and not the shoe. A boot pulled tight over the cone will wipe off the grease and then try to slide the small end over the dry cone. SPOILERS: It doesn't work. After lubricating the shoe and cone for the second try, I encountered the following problem. In fact, the cuff slides up the cone easily enough, but the cone is not large enough to clear the CV joint (see Figure 1) and the cuff stopped sliding when it hit the joint. I fought and fought, and finally the toe of the boot hit the retaining groove in the ankle and I couldn't go any further. By this time the pledge was gone and the boot on the cone was dry. I was able to remove it and regroup for attempt #3. I opted for a slightly more permanent lube, opted for spray silicone and applied it to both the boot and the cone. In this attempt, the shoe was completely removed from the cone, but the narrow end barely brushed the tone wheel and it would NOT slide over the pivot. At this point boat #1 gave up the fight (see image #2). About this time I was wondering if I would stop the car to wait for a new axle, but I had a different trunk and didn't give up, so I opted for attempt #4. It was all or nothing, so i decided on lube. I liberally lubricated the outside of the #2 boot and then turned it inside out and lubricated the cone - and then that little voice in my head saying something needed to be done about the rusty CV joint OD got loud enough that I finally he listened and sanded the joint until it was smooth as a cone. This time the leading edge slid slightly over the CV joint, but again the small end stayed just behind the tone wheel. After the CV joint was cleaned I was able to redo a small portion and the worst of the fight was over. Haven't gotten off the wrestling bus yet as I couldn't get the boot out long enough that it didn't collapse because it stuck to the shaft and created a vacuum when pulled out into the retaining grooves. I was able to very carefully insert a pick for the radiator hose into the narrow end as it popped out allowing air to enter and the trunk to hold its correct shape. My final mistake was not discovered until I reinstalled the axle into the knuckle and realized the boot was too far from the pivot and the clamp was interfering with the casting. Thank goodness the kit had everything needed to make 2 joints because I used almost everything to make one. I have given a product 3 stars when there is nothing wrong with it and it may seem a bit harsh but the lack of instructions meant it took half a day to make 1 hour and paying to make 2 Joints is only enough for one. The people who make a living from it don't need it, but home players do few things in their lives and will certainly benefit from it. The lack of instructions detracted from the value of the product for me. I need to do four more of these on the pickup and after going through this and knowing all the tricks I'm going to go for split boots.