Finally this part worked for me and my truck started right away! {Remember to ground it properly when installing, and use thermal grease, not dielectric grease.} This was installed on a 1991 2WD Ranger with a 2.3 liter V-8 engine. I bought a truck about a year ago and don't drive it much as I work from home. When I first started driving the truck, it would stall from time to time as if it didn't have enough gas. I drove like this for a few months while fiddling around trying to figure out the source of the problem as I had a problem. time and money. Eventually the problem worsened, often igniting on startup and sometimes stalling completely while driving. This truck had many other problems that hid what was going on. It had wires gnawed by rodents, vacuum line leaking, intermittent inertia switch, one bad connector wire, two connector wires swapped, traces of carbon on a spool. It also had the erroneous fuel gauge common on these vehicles, which always made me uncertain of the actual fuel level. I replaced the fuel pump assembly in case the pump failed and repaired the sensor. I put in new spark plugs and wires, fixed a vacuum leak, fixed the wires, threw inertia wires and put in a new fuel filter, also changed the oil. Thought it was all the tuning parts he needed anyway so nothing more. After the problem persisted and the truck became unreliable I did some research and figured out how to get the codes out. I found out there was no check engine light and used a test lamp to get the codes. . The codes indicated a coil malfunction, and traces of soot bore witness to this. The coils were tested ok on an ohmmeter, fairly close to spec but I found the following: ENA Set of 2 new ignition coils for Ford Lincoln Mercury compatible with C924 Fd487 Fd480 490 F510 5c1117 178-8222 E96 52-1967 Regarding this one Price I solved them swap places to leave me a spare. (Reels work great! Good quality for the price) Reel code returned. I happened to find a mention on the mustang forum that the tachometer is not working properly on the 2.3L and that the signal is coming from the ignition module. The tachometer never worked on this car. After further research, a YouTube video showed how an intermittent ignition module can go into "limp home" mode intermittently, where it slows down syncing. This can cause power failure, freezing, reverse ignition, non-starting and other problems. , including the loss of the wheelbarrow. So I replaced the module with this L230 and as soon as I got it working I knew the truck was fixed. He has more power than ever and runs like a scalded monkey. If I didn't put first or reverse gear first and gave it a lot of gas, the truck would stall. Now I can let go of the clutch without accelerating and it's like flying. There is so much power on the road that the rear wheels tend to loosen up in gas turns, so I had to change my riding habits. Ensure proper grounding during installation. The top left hole is technically for ground contact, but there was no thread in that location on my truck, nor was there a screw in that location on the original module. The new module explicitly states that the top left hole must be grounded with a bolt. After some online verification and confirmation with a multimeter, the two holes on the left can be used for grounding. The holes on the right do NOT ground the module. I went ahead and stuck the wire in the top left hole anyway, connected it to the bottom left screw and damn it, I routed the wire to engine ground just to be sure. However, a screw in the bottom left corner should be enough to properly ground it. When installing, be sure to use a thermal compound such as B. the material used to assemble processors in computers. Apply a thin coat to the back of the module where it contacts the air intake. Some repair manuals say to use dielectric grease, which DOESN'T WORK. It does not transfer heat to the inlet properly, causing the module to overheat and fail quickly. The composition of the heatsink is constant and cools the module properly.
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