David Page Coffin's book on shirtmaking has changed the whole way I approach men's shirtmaking. Before that I painted shirts by numbers – blindly following the pattern instructions, unsatisfied with the result but not knowing how to improve it. After finding Shirtmaking, I found that the pattern instructions weren't really the best. For example, I still don't know why full lapels with overlapped sleeves are so popular on commercial styles - I think they're hard to do well and look like crap if not very well done. Coffin's extremely clear instructions gave me the confidence to make changes to printed patterns myself, and the improved cuffs were just the beginning. I've also improved my collaring skills, replaced the mock neck with tape, tried (and successfully removed!) a button placket with hidden buttons down the front, and finally mastered flatlock stitching (now my favorite seamwork of all time). Well, Coffin did it. again. In Making Trousers Magazine you will find many ideas for bag variations, the best ways to build and reinforce belts, width designs, fabric choices and workflows. That is amazing. However, what it is NOT is a book for beginners. The book begins by examining several pairs of pants, from RTW jeans to women's haute couture pants, and the language it uses to describe them suggests you're familiar with them. For example, the front of the flies: Coffin discusses the advantages of threaded shields and extensions over separate shields, discusses volume reduction, and doesn't lose sight of the effect of straight fiber versus pitch. There are two step-by-step demonstrations of two different methods of sewing in a zipper, followed by a comparison of the subtle differences between the methods, tips for reducing bulk, topstitching and piping. and THEN a demo of making a button. Be warned, if you haven't made at least one pair of pants (and I mean pants—strapless pants don't count), this book might be for you. matching book. The front does it straight — Coffin suggests drawing it yourself or hiring a fashion designer to do it. If you already have a pattern that suits you, you can get to work (and if you don't have one, start with Burda). Pants for Real People, while probably that far removed from Coffin in terms of writing style and layout, is a worthy resource to try on. The included DVD is a real bonus. I'm not a big fan of DVDs with sewing instructions (it's usually hard to tell what's happening because people's hands get in the way of sewing to see what's going on), but this DVD has lots of illustrations and examples, that may not need to be included in a book without doubling its size and cost. There are patterns for different bag options, sewing and cutting tips, and lots of close-ups of handmade and RTW clothing. The DVD contains PDF files with photos and QuickTime videos. I had no problem looking at her. I look forward to trying some of the belt techniques now. If you are looking to improve your pants design skills, I am sure you will benefit from this book. **Edited the third paragraph to correct a ridiculous misstatement on my part :-)
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