Review on 🔧 Dorman CC649041 Clutch Combination: Master Slave Cylinder Assembly for Efficient Performance by Shane Watson

Good stuff. Goes perfectly with granddaughter's 2002 Wrangler SE.1. 4 nuts must be removed. 2 inside the firewall. High, not as difficult as it seems. A 14mm hole on a 1/4" folding ratchet works well. 2 attachments of the working cylinder to the bell body. A 1/2 inch deep drill hex works well. Typical Jeep, SAE and metric interspersed.2. Do not cut the white clamps on the new block, leave them intact, install them, the 1st clutch pedal pump will damage them.3. Be sure to route the new line next to the firewall behind any other lines, you want it to be as far away from the exhaust as possible. The line is pre-bent, work with it until it is correct, do not allow unnatural bending.4. Secure the line, you don't want it jumping onto the exhaust. There are 2 factory clips, one for the firewall, a larger one for the bell body.5. This kit is complete except for the safety switch, please note if you detach and reassemble in the same way.6. The rod end of the operating lever in this kit is plastic from start to finish, factory metal. It's ok since the metal is so soft it weathers in just 50,000 miles. It comes with a new black plastic bushing. Lightly but generously lubricate the metal pin on the clutch lever before installing the new actuating lever. Dupont Teflon Spray, all synthetic. No petroleum based lubricants including WD40 which is almost pure kerosene.7. Note the black plastic sleeve. Dogs are two-sided. Make sure both snap into place. The outer kit holds the drive lever to the clutch pedal lever. The inner pawl set snaps into a recessed "ring" on a pin welded to the clutch lever. This ring is identical to the ring on the brake pedal. However, the brake pedal lever uses a more traditional and durable metal clip. When I install one of these clutch actuators, I always secure it with wire or zip ties. You can use the hole in the clutch lever. This prevents the drive from falling off if the black plastic bushing fails, which happens to many of them. The clutch will be sloppy, but at least it'll get you home. Some people cut the bushing and mount a clip like the one on the brake side, others mount a "C" clip, try 7/16. To date I have not found a metal sleeve that fits the pin (inner diameter of the sleeve) and a wall thin enough (outer diameter of the sleeve) so that I can enlarge the hole in the actuator and replace it with a black plastic sleeve with a metal sleeve and attachment with a brake or clamp. Alternatively, I'd be interested in finding an externally threaded (rod end) connection that I could thread into, then screw on a factory metal actuator and screw into the nut.