Perfect for slab installation as you don't have to glue anything to the PVC pipe (so you don't have to dig concrete if you do that want to change later). The interior is rubber and uses a compression fit around a PVC tube. You don't need to prime/glue any parts onto the PVC. You simply remove the plastic nut from below, insert it into the shower tray from above and the nut on top from below and tighten. It then sits on top of a PVC tube, and the rubber inside forms a compression seal around the tube (no glue needed). I make my own shower in the basement and dig up the existing panel, connect it to the main sewer and then run the new PVC. Tube. I wasn't sure how the shower drain would connect or what to do. I couldn't find the dimensions so I had to order it to see it. It fits 2" PVC pipe and needs about 4" diameter for the union nut. It's about 2 inches tall. So leave some space around the PVC as it goes through the concrete. You'll need about 1 inch or so all the way around (for a 4 inch diameter) and it should be about 2 inches below the top. Concrete (worst case if your shower is directly on it and very thin). An easy way to do this is to buy a 4" PVC tie circle, wrap it around the 2" PVC and use it to keep the concrete out. Around him. You can keep it or remove it. I ended up pouring concrete over the pipe and then digging it up, but that can be risky (you don't want to damage the pipe). I would recommend leaving an enclosed area around it as described. I've included a photo of the instructions and a few pictures of the dimensions which I wish I would have to help someone else in a similar situation. It is attached to a DreamLine 36 inch shower enclosure, model DL-6153-01kl. I haven't finished the installation yet but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work after I cut the PVC drain pipe and wired everything Good luck !PS The photo of the shower tray has the rubber grommet on the wrong side. I just have trying to show me in shape.As the instructions show, the rubber grommets go under the shower tray.
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