Review on 🔌 iGreely Solar Panel to 8mm Adapter Cable with 5.5x2.5mm Converter DC Connector for Portable Backup Power Stations – Compatible with GZ Yeti, Jackery, and other Solar Generators – 14AWG, 6ft Length by Shane Loredo

I advised the seller to remove "compatible with Target Zero" from the product claims. It doesn't work with a null target. If you look at the attached photo, you will see that igrily Male, Target Zero Male and Female Target Zero are lined up. The 8mm zero target cable has a thinner section of black plastic just below the metal tip and female zero target. has a similar raised "lip" into which the true male end of the null target snaps. As such, igreely will not fully connect to an 8mm zero target input nor to a zero target extension cable. Based on other reviews, Jackery storage products will work with it, but it's not a zero-purpose compatible product. I've seen two fixes and successfully completed one of them, except undoing that one. You will see on "other" 3rd party 8mm zero mark patch cords here on Amazon that they have a cut ferrule like the zero mark. Fix #1, not the one I used as it could easily damage the cable. Using a neat knife or other shaving tool, snip about 1/8th of the black plastic on the cable igrey under the metal tip, trim about half the length. Then use an accordion to cut out some of that black plastic and keep cutting until it fits into the null gate connector. I didn't do this because of the precise cut, one of my hands had nerve damage and I wanted to be able to return the toy if all else failed. Fix #2 I used and it worked fine and I have no reservations. about reuse. Use an 8mm to 8mm null extension male on one end and you can see the female end in the photo. Use a razor blade or sharp knife to cut the nest at the ends of the nest with the hole facing you. After 3-4 cuts in various places, the "seams" you made allow the thicker 8mm black plastic grommet to go igreely fully into the zero 8mm jack cable, and with the Yeti input plug it works perfectly. You'll need an extension cord anyway unless you're placing your Yeti <6' from the panel. A quick wrap of electrical tape ensures a tight connection, and the toy is easy to remove and insert the Torzero. so everything stays right. The ends of the mc4 cable fit perfectly into the renology and hqst panel with correct polarity. I've only seen a few panels here and there that swap the positive and negative mc4 connections. So if the panel's product page doesn't state that you've decided to do something stupid and do an important thing backwards, or if you weren't warned about it in the test, 95% of panels with mc4 connectors will work with it just fine. If you're scratching your head, here's my setup and how things work. Most panels (I recommend the 100W HGST Monocrystal because it's identical in every way to the established Renology, but cheaper, and Mono is better than poly panels, only slightly more expensive) have a connector called "mc4". There is a plug (male) and a socket. To avoid complications, they can be connected together when installing a roof house, but we won't do that here. Each panel is connected to a null yeti, this is called a "parallel connection". The Yeti has two input options, one is the 8mm connector mentioned above and the other is called 'Anderson Power Pole'. "APP" has two connectors, one red and one black. APP is more common, while the 8mm Target Zero is something of a proprietary pairing that Target Zero likes to make along with shipping their lower-end models with cheap AC adapters and a cheap solar controller, but that's another story. Get from mc4 panels up to 8mm or APP. And Yeti has one each, so you can connect one panel with 8mm and the other with APP. They can be used simultaneously, as I found out after half a day of research. More than 2 disks? There is a target null adapter to connect 4 x 8mm to APP or 4 x APP to an APP. Now you need to decide what to run from Panel to Yeti. You can buy such an 8mm cable for each panel, an 8mm extension cable long enough to connect to the panel and a 4 x 8mm adapter to connect with the application associate. You can also buy a mc4 APP adapter instead of a mc4-8mm like this cable and connect APP extensions to Yeti's APP 4 x adapter. You will most likely get more power from APP extensions than from 8mm as the wire is usually thicker and thicker wire means more power. But APP extension cords are expensive and hard to find over 10 meters. So I used this HQST 100w panel cable, then a 30ft extension from 8mm to 8mm and a null from 4 x 8mm to APP. Interconnects. Purrs like a kitten once you've given this target a zero extension with some perforations to allow it to expand far enough. Conduit) Two core Romex cable, some MC4 and/or App and/or 8mm connectors, the right tools to crimp and connect to Yeti, just stick positive (red) to positive and negative (black). negative from end to end. This is cheaper but may require more work and is more difficult to set up and take down. Last tip? Of course, Goal Zero threw us another patented twistball. Your APP connector is positioned so that the positive contact is over the negative. As far as I know everyone else has two side by side so the fork won't work unless you buy a target zero one. I've seen ONE 4 to 1 adapter cable that allows you to pull the two connectors out of the APP cable cover and place them up/down instead of side by side. Otherwise you will have to pay thirty dollars for a scoreless version. And all that fiddling has led me to the conclusion that you're better off getting the new 1000 jacket instead of the Yeti which has a regular 8mm and regular AMS with the right orientation AND a built in solar MPPT by comparison Controller has the cheaper Yeti PWM controller. But GV got you covered. They can buy an MPPT controller for their power plants for an additional hundred dollars.