Review on Jerdon HL65CD 8-Inch Lighted Wall Mount Makeup Mirror with 5x Magnification, Chrome Finish – Enhanced SEO, 1.0 Count by Gerald Duncan

First of all, I should note that the specifications of the product may have changed since I bought it. This review is for my old purchase. Looking back I realize I should have sent it back because the light is so bad. I kept it because I didn't buy it for makeup use and the lighting in my bathroom is adequate for my purposes. Not to mention that I didn't install the mirror until I got it. If you're looking for a well-lit face, keep looking. This mirror emits a very weak light. If you are looking for a wall mirror, keep looking. This one is wired and unless you have the electrical skills that I have you will most likely need an electrician. I was fortunate that my chosen mounting location fell into the same bolt cavity as the existing outlet. If you're good at electrical work, you can probably do it yourself, although your city's building codes may prohibit homeowners from doing electrical work themselves. . It is best to inquire with your responsible building authority beforehand. If you can live with a location close to an outlet, this becomes easier. A quick internet search will turn up many pages of instructions for expanding a circuit or adding an outlet in the middle of a circuit. The hardest part is routing the new cable from the existing junction box (source) to the new junction box. (Don't even think about placing it without a junction box. It doesn't fit the code. It's dangerous, which is why they have the code in the first place.) As I said above, I got lucky my source was in the same stud cave as the location , which I chose. If you don't, there are ways around it. If you can't keep getting the source up through your attic or up out of your basement over and over again, you can try the trick I've used for other chain extenders. Carefully remove the baseboard, then remove a strip of drywall no taller than the baseboard to later conceal your repair. Use a long drill to drill holes in the studs at this level that you need to go through. Always try to drill dead center at a 90 degree angle, although at an angle it can be tricky. With the strip of drywall removed, you have more room to experiment. I've also seen instructions for using the slots in the front of the uprights to keep the cord in line with the baseboard, which is then covered with cord guards. However, it's well known that cutting the edges of structure elements has a debilitating effect, so I've never done this before. If your holes are less than 1.5" from the front edge of the studs, you will need to install cable protectors (see link), i.e. H. Shields on each stud at hole level to prevent future nails or screws from damaging the wire. Use the same gauge electrical wire as your source. You'll likely see 14/2 (usually blue or white) or maybe 12/2 (yellow). The first number is the cross-section of the cable, the second - the number of conductors in addition to the ground wire. Black is hot, white is neutral, and bare (sometimes green) is the ground wire. For now, it's better that you go to sources on the web that have more experience and better instructions than I can briefly offer. It's not difficult, but you have to do it right! If in doubt, call an electrician or purchase a mirror with a cord that plugs in. I chose hard wire because visible cords always seem sloppy to me, especially when extension cords are needed. Oh my gosh, don't forget to turn off the correct circuit at the fuse box before touching the source wire! sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=hairpin+electro+protection&qid=1613949503&sr=8-7