Review on OlarHike 12V Dual Cylinder Air Compressor: Heavy-Duty Inflator For SUVs/Trucks With 150PSI Metal Pump, LED Night Light, And Auto Shut-Off - Gold by Brian Fishel

I had been having a slow leak at a valve stem on my winter tire setup on my Chrysler 300, so I was excited to have something that I could keep in the car so that I didn't end up stranded, needing to take a portable tank somewhere to fill so that I can go back and fill my tire, or call AAA.The quality of this feels a LITTLE cheap here and there. The compressor itself felt great, runs pretty quietly, and does it's job pretty well. The clamps for the battery connection are very thin metal, feel very cheap, and the protective plastic sleeves over the handles slip off VERY easily.I tried this, first, using the easily accessible 12V cigarette lighter power socket on the center console of my car. Followed the instructions to the letter, it appeared to work fine, but after it appeared to reach pressure and shut off, the display went dark and I couldn't get it to come back on. Turns out it blew the 20A fuse that that 12V socket uses. That failure shut down that outlet, and the 12V inside my center console.I didn't have time to run and get another fuse right away, so I packed things up and waited a couple days to try again.This time I hooked it up to my car's bettery, which is in the trunk, by the spare tire. Not very convenient, but this time it seemed to work much better. I aired both rear tires up a little, but didn't get a very consistent reading for the tire pressure on the compressor. I couldn't quite reach the front wheels with it hooked up to the battery in the trunk, so I reconnected it to the terminals by the fuse box under the hood. Seemed to work fine there, so that was good.Overall, I think the quality could be a lot better, but it's not totally unexpected for the cost. If I would improve on anything, it would be better quality battery clamps, not blowing a 20A fuse (manual says to make sure you're on 15A or greater fuse, and there is a 15A fuse (allegedly) inside the power cord, but that never failed), clarify, within the step-by-step instructions, what each side of the power switch does, use better don't/colors in the manual, because it's torture on the eyes. I assumed the power switch's 1 was LED, and 2 was compressor. Not true. It's clearer in the numbered BOM in the manual, but it would be helpful to have that right in the instructions.Overall, it seems to work fairly well in some scenarios, and i see it as a valuable tool, but I'm not confident in the build quality, and there is a lot of room for improvement.