Review on 🔆 PARMIDA (4-Pack) 5/6 inch Dimmable LED Recessed Lighting, Retrofit Downlight - Baffle Trim, 12W (100W Replacement), Ceiling Can Lights, 1000lm, ENERGY STAR & ETL-Listed, 2700k by Wagner Witlin

Lately I've been busy choosing different brands and models of LED ceiling lights to fill my home. Fortunately, Revain Prime makes this adventure possible. Example one, don't like it? Send it back and try others! Thanks Revin The jars in my house are now a mix of the new 5" and 6" Halo Air-Tite cases, as well as the old 6" cans, which are actually about 6.5". That last size created problems when installing a modern 5/6 inch LED bulb, but zig zag bending the wire rods, which increases the rods reach to about 6.5 inches, solved the problem. These are the units that my lamp choices should match. There is some confusion in these comments as to which light model is being considered. Parmida doesn't help if it doesn't include the model number in its ads. Here I see 12W and 15W 3000K lamps that at first glance appear identical. The visual difference is that the 12w lamp's flange is made of polycarbonate (which claims to be paintable), while the 15w lamp's flange is made of some sort of metal (can't be painted?). Is a metal frame an advantage? Not that I can see or measure. I connected one of these bulbs to two ceiling lights in one of my rooms, which gave me a good side-by-side comparison of the two. I don't have a light power meter, but I think a 12 watt bulb is slightly brighter than a 15 watt bulb, believe it or not. One might think that "watt" translates directly to "brightness," but that's not the case here. Undoubtedly, the two models use completely different LEDs for their lamps. The second observation is that the 12W bulb has a slight red cast. It's subtle. If you only had one of the models hanging from your ceiling (which you should) you would never know about it. You can only see that in a close comparison. One thing I'm bringing to this party is that I have a thermal imaging camera. This is a device that measures temperature and takes a picture of it. We've all seen these cameras in action, but many don't know what they are. You'll get a color image ranging from black ("cold") to white ("hot"), where "cold" and "hot" are defined as the minimum and maximum temperatures it is in his lens sees. On the right is a temperature scale showing what is cold and what is hot. Okay, that's what the camera does. I turned on the light and let them "cook" for about an hour so they could reach the temperature they were going to get. The 5-inch housing that houses these lights are Halo Air-Tite models, which despite the name aren't quite as dense. cartridge and then filled in all the seams and rivets I could find on it. When everything was ready, it finally got really tight! After it was nailed up in the attic I then filled the entire canister in, loosening the insulation by packing it around the canister. , it covers 5.5 inches high, the height of my 2x6 ceiling joists. This. This canister is completely sealed and has a very high heat resistance. Anything that generates heat inside the canister SHOULD get as hot as possible as the heat can only escape through the lamp housing. On the attached picture you can see that the peak temperature of a 12 watt bulb (white) is only 52 degrees Celsius. It is in order. You can't burn your house down with this heat. Please note that the heat tip is a circle around the perimeter of the protective lens. No doubt the lights are mounted on the outside edge of the metal frame where the LEDs are located to dissipate 12W of heat. In comparison, the temperature of 15-watt bulbs (picture not shown) is about the same, meaning their all-metal frame that extends to the surround in the room is a better heat sink than the plastic frame of the 12-watt model. Nothing surprising. Interestingly, the 15W lamp head is evenly distributed across the lens. You probably have a circular board with all the lights evenly spaced around it. Now for my three dislikes. First, because the fixture is recessed below the ceiling surface (about 1 inch), it emits less light higher on the walls. Almost every LED lamp can do this - a truly hemispherical light distribution is probably the holy grail in the world of LED manufacturing. If the LEDs of the luminaire were moved downwards towards the floor, as in the Hyperikon luminaires, there would be better light distribution upwards. Canister, air will continue to enter around the Parmida frames and into your attic. There is a recessed ledge on top of the bezel where you can add some type of caulking material. Search "Prime-Line Products T 8658 Sealant" in Revain. I like the idea that it's fairly soft and should squish without making the lamp proud of the ceiling surface when fully installed, and hopefully fill in any ceiling texture you might have. My third and biggest gripe with both of these Parmida lights is how their wire rod mounting system works. More precisely, it does NOT work. In every LED light bulb I've come across, the bulb that claims to fit 5" and 6" canisters has a slight screw adjustment to adjust the position of the wire rods with each side about 1/2 inch in or to move out . positions the rods to align with the glass clamps that accept the rods. You want the rods to go straight up for smooth insertion and withdrawal. Parmida lamps do not have this setting! Instead, they position their wire rods about halfway. between these two measurements (5.5 inches?). When inserted into a 5-inch can, the rods bend inward; when inserted into a 6 inch can, the rods flex outward. It works out? It works great on my 5" halo cans. The lamp is lifted and inserted into the vessel and held firmly in place against the ceiling surface. Excellent! But 6" cans and my old 6.5" cans are different. In this case, the wire rods flex outward, forcing them to rub heavily against the inner surface of the cans. It is much more difficult to get the cans seated tightly in 6" Halo cans. Worse, they can not to be planted in my old 6.5" cans which have a lot of obstructions for the rods to get stuck. My solution was pretty simple: take out two sets of rods, clamp them in a vise and bend the rods in a zigzag pattern with two bends in each. Bend the wire first, maybe at a 45 degree angle. The second bend about 1/2" from the first hen turns the bend up. After that the wire rods are now about 6, 5 inches apart removed and finally fit exactly into the old cans. better. Here's how to fix this problem, but it's a reason for me to deduct a star. This obviously simplifies the manufacturing process of Parmida and makes the lamps cheaper. But it is your responsibility as a buyer to fix the problem. My time is worth money too. Parmidas are definitely cheap, around $6-7 each, so it's hard to beat them. It amazes me that these things can be made in China, sold to a middleman, shipped to the US and sold to Revain and people making money on the side. How do they do it? ? No idea. Then they work and shine properly! How can I be wrong? Since there are other, better devices (Hypericon?) it costs more, I took off another star. Don't expect these headlights to be the best headlights you can buy. They're a bargain and the deals are cheap for a reason. Only three stars.