Installed on a 2014 Ford Escape. The only downside I found was the flimsy 6" plastic zip ties, I used 8" zip ties and the driver's side cable could be an inch or two longer. This is etailer installation video. [.] The video doesn't show them removing the plastic rivets on the panels under the taillights to give you more room to run wires to the taillights, but at 2:42 in the video it looks like the rivet would have been removed. The installation video is also a bit vague on where to mount the converter block. Where I installed mine, the wire going to the driver's side tail light has only a slight slack. I don't have a small drill, so I used a dremel and a 3/32" bit to drill the first hole for the ground screw. I didn't want to risk breaking the plastic rivets, they're too heavy to remove, so after removing the 2-8mm panel screws, I popped the bottom inside corner onto the panels and carefully pulled the bottom of the panels out just enough Pry the connectors up through the hole with the cable. There is enough space there, and if necessary, you can put your hand under the bumper and slide it through the hole. Pull the wires up the sides of the fairings to the taillights, push them down to the fairing snaps, wire to the rear fuse box, push the wire through until it is visible inside the fuse box. insulated 12-10 AWG socket to another and connect it to the rear fuse box. You can also use Add-a-Fuse and connect it to the #2 fuse socket on the bottom left. This is much easier than running a power cable under the car to the battery. I recently installed the 118149 Tow Ready 4-Flat Universal Mount Bracket on my hitch. See description of my setup here: [.]
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