This is a great looking fan that works without hesitation. . . Balancing is not required. The blades are dark brown (walnut) and black with a gray wood texture on the back. I installed it flush (which probably helps with the wobble) in our bedroom without the short track that was included. This places the top edges of the fan blades 4 inches from the ceiling. The ceiling is 96 inches (8 feet) and the light sphere is 86.5 inches (9.5 inches deep), which is more than 7 feet from the floor. The bottom edge of the blades is 91 inches. Lots of headroom. One problem with a narrow/recessed mount is that the small area above the fins restricts air movement. As the fan spins, air is pushed both out and down. The outflow "blocks" air movement to the top of the fan, reducing efficiency quite drastically. There are two solutions to this problem, one of which I tried. The trick is to simply change the direction of the fan. The outward air movement is still there, but now it's helping the rising air blow out and move around the room. I would say the air movement is just as good at low speed when the fan is blowing up as it is at high speed when the fan is blowing off. It's nice to lie on the bed in our 12 x 15 foot room. (Note that the reverse is only really effective in winter if you have a large room with high ceilings. You run the fan at a very low speed to push warm air from above along the outside walls, but hopefully without it noticeable air movement. C with this fan. In a small room you will feel the air flow, which has a cooling effect.) Another possible solution is to install a fan with a bottom shaft. This lowers the fan about 4 inches (presumably using the included 4-inch pole) from the ceiling - which would be fine for an 8-foot ceiling in most situations - and gives more room for airflow. If you try this, please leave a comment! There is a slight engine rumble, but it's only annoying at high speed, and since the air moving noise is larger than the rumble, it's mostly muffled. For me this is not a violation. The existing light switch (which used to only control the sockets) turned the light on/off, but the fan was powered directly and controlled solely by the remote control. My light switch is NOT a dimmer so I get full brightness with the That said, if you have the light in dim mode with the remote control, you can use the wall switch to toggle between full on and dim light on. I've included a schematic if you want to wire yours this way. (By the way, you can just run the hot wire through the switch and straight to the red wire for the controller. Then when you turn the switch on, the fan and light are in the state they were in when you turned them off. Not like that versatile, but ok.)
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