Review on Ranger GAC17042: Alluring Glossy Accents for Precision Scrapbooking & Stamping by Lori Aguirre

UPDATE: (downgraded from 5 to 3 stars). It still has many of the benefits I listed in my previous review, but it's definitely turning yellow (not just in the bottles that were always in the dark box, but still yellow), but also yellow on the items, on which it is used. So if you're not comfortable with an "aged" finish and yellowing after a while, use something like Tri-Art water glass that's art quality instead. BUT if you try to go from AMMONIA ALLERGY (headache + runny nose + sneezing) to all acrylics including Glossy Accents, Tri-Art or Liquitex, and not feel guilty if you add more acrylic plastic waste to the environment and then use something more natural. Я переключился на Natural Glass и FinalFIx от Spectrafix — оба они архивные, натуральные и превосходны в качестве закрепителя, медиума и лака для моих целей.———————————————————— -- ---------- Я использовал мод podge Dimensional Magic и мод podge super толстый глянец, глянцевый лак liquitex и глянцевые акценты (здесь "GA"), а GA - лучшая искусственная смола размерности, а также удивительный и нетоксичный ювелирный Glue. GA is bulky in contrast to Liquitex, Dry on a flat surface (Liquitex varnish works well for flat art and as a final coat over tacky Art Nouveau furniture decoupage projects - a separate topic covered in another review), and GA is also acid free and won't crack or shrink not a dimensional magic mod that ruined everything i used. GA dries clear and shiny like glass, even over miniature watercolor or ink drawings that I add to custom jewelry. (See the attached example of GA above the watercolor in the earring set.) I have also used GA instead of GS for hypocement bonding of knots and tips of beads and clasps in jewelry making and am totally amazed that it works as well or even better . without toxic fumes. Some details on my use: 1) Constipation: To prevent the tip from clogging (which has never happened before), I wipe the nozzle with a cleaning tissue (I use Cleanwell tissues) and then force all the air out of the bottle before capping the spout and trying to store vertically, but I haven't had any problems on my side either. 2) Yellowing: I don't leave my GA bottles in front of a sunny window (they are kept in a dark closet) and I do the same with my jewelry when I'm not wearing it as a precaution. Nothing has turned yellow in a year, I will update if anything changes. UPDATE above - it's turning yellow. :(3) Bubbles and thick layers, bumps, etc.: thin layers, glass layers, middle layers, Coats of paint and thick natural resin coatings all look great and I applied them all with GA. Squeeze the air out of the bottle before applying HA to minimize bubbles and if they still exist they can be squeezed out with a steel needle. I've found that for really deep frames with high arched tops, multiple coats of GA (drying in between) works. Applying a large amount at once is quicker but can lead to a lot of blisters. You can pour all at once bubble-free when you pull out a thin-tipped spout and simply pour straight from the open neck. It needs to dry overnight but it will be transparent. Make sure the jewelry is stored semi-covered in a dry, lint-free, windproof corner is dried. 4) Hardness: Yes, real epoxy will be much harder, but it's non-toxic and doesn't give off fumes, so I'm fine. with this trade. Also, epoxy melts watercolor paper while GA does not. therefore it can be applied directly to paper without sealing. I've found that the longer he's at something, the harder it gets because it "heals". Extra thin coats or drips on knots dry in minutes, thin to medium coats dry in hours, and extra thick puddles on the frame dry overnight. I don't messily stack my GA resin pieces in my jewelry box, but other than that I treat them like other pieces of jewelry and haven't noticed any dents or a few scratches. I have jewelry with dried GA used in or on it, also wiped clean with a clean cloth with no problems (I like to clean my jewelry of lotion residue and germs before putting it away). I have not used alcohol or lysol wipes to clean GA or other jewelry and would not recommend it. 5) Color Bleeding: Sometimes water soluble inks or watercolors can be reactivated if glue or finish is applied with water. To prevent this, I apply a very thin layer of matte mod podge paper to the piece of paper in the faceplate before pouring GA onto it if I'm afraid of bleeding. You can also use a very thin coat of Ranger matte medium. Most of the time I skip this (mostly out of laziness) and just apply a super thin coat of GA over the part and let it sit for 15 minutes, before pouring a lot more GA onto the part to create a resin look. With inks and watercolors I skip even that and haven't had any bleeding problems. 6) Removal: Real epoxy is pretty darn tough which is good in some cases, one piece of jewelry I made with resin/epoxy with GA, I can soak it in water for 2 days and then pull GA out as a hard ball from the metal bezel with pins and try it again. Of course, a design on paper or any other soft material is also lost if it's soaked in water, but you have a bezel and gems, stones, or crystals so you can start over. I could never do that with real epoxy - the metal frames and bricks would have to be thrown away if the project fails. While the GA is wet you can also wipe the spatter off your jewelry or your desk with a damp cloth. 7) Besides resin or bulk gloss, I've also used GA as a strong jewelry glue, as well as for embedding stones. and gemstones and crystals and silver wire, and again it holds very well and gives a great "floating in the glass" look. See attachment for some pictures!