Review on Pure And Convenient Water Purification With Megahome Countertop Water Distiller: White With Glass Collection by Jeff Langford

I recently wrote another revain product review for the Baby Brezza Temperature Controlled Water Kettle, which I use to keep water at body temperature for nasal irrigation. Shortly after I started using that product, I realized that I was growing tired of worrying about the possibility, albeit a remote one, of getting an infection of the amoeba "Naegleria fowleri" from my well water, and was also tired of always running out of gallon jugs of distilled water from the store just when I needed it. Besides occasional nasal irrigation, I also have some backup sump batteries that need topping off with distilled water in the colder and dryer months, and I also run some chemical processes in my home laboratory that require distilled water for best results. I started looking for a small distiller intended for home use, and Google searches led me to this MegaHome unit. It had mostly good reviews so I bought one from revain.The product comes with the boiler/condenser unit, a glass pitcher of about 1 gallon capacity, a box of six activated charcoal packets, and a jar of citric acid pellets. The product arrives in a box that at first seems to have only the boiler/condenser inside, but on closer inspection it reveals a sort of Russian doll scheme where the glass pitcher, with handle removed, is inside the boiler tank, the handle parts, citric acid and charcoal filters are inside the pitcher. You need to assemble the handle to the pitcher, which involves wrapping two stainless steel straps around the pitcher (they fit into recessed grooves in the glass), then screwing the handle onto nuts that are welded to the straps. A plastic cover snaps onto the handle to cover the mounting hardware. You also need to assemble the condenser which is comprised of a small glass funnel and a plastic housing for the funnel, and this snaps onto the discharge end of the condenser. One packet of activated charcoal fits wadded up inside the glass funnel, and it removes any residual chemicals that might have been distilled along with the water; in practice this makes distilled drinking water taste better. The assembly snaps off to change the packet.The boiler/condenser is in two parts. The boiler rests on the counter top, shelf, or other suitable flat surface. It consists of a stainless steel tank that holds a bit more than one gallon, with an electric heating underneath. An integrated circuit breaker/thermostat on the side of the boiler turns off the heater when all the water in the tank is boiled off, and also protects against overloads or other faults. It does not work as an on/off switch.The condenser rests on top of the boiler, and stays in place because a lip along the edge keeps it centered on the boiler. A gasket seals the two together, although it is only gravity at work and no hardware is used to latch it in place. The condenser consists of a stainless steel dome that collects the steam created from the boiling water below, and the steam exits the dome through a hole that leads to a double coil of stainless steel tubing that wraps around inside the condenser. An electric motor with a fan is mounted in the middle of the coils of tubing, and draws in cool air through side vents, past the coils (cooling the steam inside and condensing it back to water), and exhausts through vents in the top. An electrical cord runs down from the condenser and plugs into a socket near the base of the boiler, right next to where the power cord comes in. This makes it easy to unplug and detach the condenser from the boiler for cleaning.The citric acid is used to clean the stainless steel when it gets funky from minerals and other impurities bake onto the surfaces after some use. You just make a batch with some citric acid in it, then drain and wipe clean.In practice, you lift the condenser from the boiler and lay it down next to the boiler. Then fill the boiler tank to the 'FULL' line, replace the condenser on top, and plug it into the electrical outlet. The electric heater starts and the fan also starts. It takes at least half an hour for the water in the tank to reach a good boil, but the insulated boiler keeps the outside from getting more than just a bit warm to the touch. Once the water is boiling, you will notice that the air exiting the top of the condenser is now pretty warm, since it is removing heat from the steam. Distilled water begins to drip out of the discharge nozzle on the side (it passes through the activated charcoal inside the glass funnel on its way out), and into the glass pitcher. The discharge nozzle fits right into the pouring spout of the pitcher, so that the plastic pitcher cover can remain in place during distillation. This keeps dust, bugs, cats, etc; out of your pure distilled water. When all the water is boiled off, the temperature inside the boiler rises sharply and this causes the thermostat to pop and turn the electric heater and fan off. Now you have a full gallon of distilled water in the pitcher ready for use. I pour it directly into an empty plastic jug that 'store-bought' distilled water came in. You can then leave the distiller alone, or you can immediately refill the tank, reset the thermostat, and make another batch right away.The distiller works at a rate of about one gallon per every six hours, so you can distill up to four gallons in a 24 hour period.I use my distiller on well water that has a number of impurities, including iron, magnesium, calcium, 'sludge', and other trace elements. After a few batches of water, the inside of the boiler tank has a film of this stuff baked on. As confirmed by the users manual, this is OK to leave there, as it does not affect the quality of the distilled water coming out. But eventually, I want to clean it and this is where the citric acid comes in. I put in a gallon of water and some acid, bring it to a boil, then drain and rinse, then wipe the inside surfaces, rinse once again and I'm ready for more distilling.One 'trick' to r